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The Rough and the Smooth

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'ACTIVE GLOBETROTTERS accustomed to sacrificing comfort stars for a physically challenging vacation really no longer have to choose,' says travel expert Annette Loftus. The founder of Aspera Explorations, a company specialising in luxurious off-road holidays, Loftus recognises that her demanding clientele increasingly seek adventure with their indulgences.

'Massages in the Amazon, gourmet meals in the Galapagos - that our explorers can expect all these and even a little action at the most exclusive hotels is becoming very much the norm.' From Chile to China, backpacks and bunk beds are giving way to top-rank resorts committed to catering to every sybaritic whim.

Topping Loftus's own wish list is Mahua Kothi, the first wildlife lodge from Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa) and India's Taj Hotels group. Nestled among the Satpura hills of Bandhavgarh National Park in Madhya Pradesh in central India, 12 air-conditioned kutiyas (jungle village huts) are scattered across 16 hectares of pristine grassland. Built in traditional style with tapered, hand-finished walls, exposed beams and floors made of local katni stone, high-thread-count sheets, private courtyards with shaded day beds and hand-blended natural bath products set them far apart from their native neighbours.

Dinner under the stars and moonlit dancing by the lake further distinguish the camp from the standard alternatives but it's the 'top-notch, world-class safari experience' brought to India by CC Africa that Loftus expects will be the main attraction. Considered one of India's most scenic spots, the park boasts tropical forests inhabited by tigers, leopards, jackals, jungle cats, wild boars, sloth bears and sambar. CC Africa-trained naturalists lead twice-daily safaris in open 4x4 vehicles equipped with extra seat padding, among other tweaked details, although those who want to unleash their inner Tarzan may opt to ride an elephant instead. Either way, Ayurvedic massages and Taj's renowned butler service greet pampered campers upon their return.

Elsewhere in the animal kingdom, Namibia's star has risen meteorically since Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie chose it as their baby's birthplace earlier this year. Lower-profile adventurous types jockey for rooms at the ultra-exclusive, four-villa Ntwala Island Lodge on a remote island at the confluence of the Zambezi and Chobe rivers. Polished wood platform beds offer commanding views onto outdoor decks with private pools perched above the dramatic Mambova rapids. And no-one misses the chance to tour the bush in a private boat with a dedicated guide to see the local hippos, elephants and lions.

Bird-watchers are rewarded for their patience with pygmy geese and African skimmers among the rare species that frequent the exotic waters, where the fly fishing is rated among the best in the world, particularly in summer. Back on land, nightfall brings indulgences for the palate from one of Africa's finest chefs and a cellar stocked with South African wines.

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