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York, England

Much of this tidy northern English city, which began life as a Roman settlement in about AD70, is dedicated to the business of separating visitors and their cash, but nowhere more quaintly than in postcard-perfect The Shambles (below right), a cobbled street at the centre of the original walled city. Its name reflects the haphazard architecture of forward-leaning, low-ceilinged, wooden-beamed shops that were butchers' premises in the 15th century. Collectables (9 The Shambles, tel: 44 0 1904 632 059) is typical of the string of quality gift, souvenir and homeware shops that lines the street. Yorkshire pottery and decorative mementos start at about #5 (HK$75).

Behind The Shambles is Newgate Market, the tiny brick buildings of which surround a small square, once the location of a slaughterhouse. The stalls at its centre sell dairy produce and meat from the Yorkshire Dales and fresh seafood from England's east coast. Should you be in York on the 29th of any month, visit the York Farmer's Market, in Parliament Street. High-quality edibles include smoked salmon from celebrated firm Hebden's of Whitby, dressed crab at #3 a pack and Bob Hirst Yorkshire Honey, which costs #2 for a small jar and #8 for a fresh honeycomb.

Mainstream and brand-name shops make their presence felt on central thoroughfare Stonegate and its surrounding streets, where clothes stores such as The Gap and Hobbs, and skincare and spa-product specialists Molton Brown can be found. Borders bookshop (tel: 44 0 1904 653 300; www.

bordersstores.co.uk), on nearby Davygate, makes a good shopping pit-stop thanks to its cafe and children's play area.

Less family friendly, but sure to hypnotise a fair percentage of boys, from toddler to senior citizen, is Whigmaleeries (below left; 29 Stonegate, tel: 44 0 1904 613 990), whose weaponry spans replica European medieval to traditional Samurai swords (from #50) to throwing stars and numchucks. Books on British and Celtic myths share shelf space with Celtic-motif silver jewellery (earrings from #5).

Just outside and parallel with the northeast city wall is up-and-coming Gillygate, a three-minute stroll from York Minster. Bohemia Galleries (7 Gillygate, tel: 44 0 1904 466 488; www.bohemia-galleries.com) is the place to go for enticing contemporary original artwork and prints, sculpture and glasswork from emerging and established artists, many of them local. Prints start at about #20. David Long Designs (62 Gillygate, tel: 44 0 1904 673 710; www.davidlongdesigns.co.uk)

ups the stakes, with mostly imported collectible vintage and contemporary furniture and home accessories. South African Carrol Boyes nickel and silver boxes, from #25, are among the most reasonably priced items.

If you cannot leave York without a gift for a child or someone young at heart, head to Christmas Angels (62 Gillygate, tel: 44 0 1904 639 908), in the city centre, where the yuletide mood is permanent. Traditionally made toys are favoured over the mass-produced plastic norm; most are British made and prices start at a couple of pounds.

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