G/F, 57 Wyndham Street, Central Tel: 2526 7993 Open: Monday-Saturday noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm (until 11pm on Friday and Saturday) Cuisine: French and Italian. Price: About HK$370 per person plus 10 per cent service charge for three courses without drinks. Ambience: Surprisingly chilled and relaxed, given the restaurant's proximity to a busy street. Downstairs offers drinks and dining looking out to Wyndham Street, whereas upstairs boasts a more contemporary yet intimate atmosphere. Pros: The staff were attentive without being suffocating. We were in the mood to talk so they left us alone, but didn't forget about us. The food is attractively presented and well executed. Cons: Some people might be put off by the traffic that streams past. It didn't affect our meal, but if you think it would bother you, the upstairs room is an option. The wine was served chilled - as in straight from the fridge - whereas we would have preferred room temperature. The casual exterior may mislead people into thinking this is an inexpensive restaurant. Recommended dishes: The spinach and gorgonzola salad (HK$95) was a perfect combination of layers of leaves with chunks of creamy cheese. It was accompanied by grilled pears, candied walnuts and sweet herb dressing, which made it not only a refreshing blend of flavours and textures, but one that packed a punch. The crab tartlet (HK$105) was rather pricey given the size, but the warm crust was soft and blended well with the creamy crab filling. The tuna salad (HK$95) my guest chose as her main course showcased perfectly seared tuna that was still a little raw in the centre (as requested), on a bed of leaves. Tasmanian salmon (HK$215, above) tasted as if it had been pulled straight from the sea, with a mouthwatering flavour that was one of the best fish fillets I've tasted. It was served with crushed potato and sauteed watercress with caper aioli that complemented the fish. Dessert of vanilla creme brulee (HK$60) had a nice crackling top, and the chocolate pudding (HK$65) was excellent - but the accompanying homemade ice cream stole the show. What else? Free canapes are served at 5pm in the drinking area downstairs.