Golden City Chiu Chow Restaurant 2/F, 68 Nathan Road opposite Hyatt Hotel Tsim Sha Tsui Tel 311-0333 Open 11 am-midnight daily WE were thrown out of my favourite post-concert Kowloon restaurant last week, but not for anything which had been written, not because we were badly dressed or badly-behaved. But no, my favourite, Crystal Jade Restaurant was so packed with diners, standing even at 10.15 pm, that we were quickly shown the door. The door led from the third floor restaurant to the second floor. And in culinary terms, far more distant, from Cantonese to Chiu Chow. But Golden City is not your ordinary rather sleazy Chiu Chow restaurant. It doesn't have the cigarette-smoking racing-mag types, trying to look like Hong Kong movie gangsters. Golden City is almost sedate. The room is unprepossessing, holding about 200 people. The table-cloths are clean, music non-existent, and waitresses and waiters extremely pleasant. Not all of them spoke much English, but they were ready to summon a head waitress whose menu-English was excellent. For six years Golden City has quietly survived, usually getting the late-comers or riff-raff from upstairs. But, from our single experience, with admirable food. It certainly has an admirable supply of Chinese wine. We were offered several brands, but wound up with a hot wine called Siu Haeng. My friend had never had rice wine before (talk about gauche), but after a hesitant sip, he had the glass filled constantly, even complaining that it wasn't hot enough. His girlfriend demurely took only half a cup. Somehow, though, the cup kept being replenished. Being neither new nor demure, I kept my cup filled constantly. The menu is typical Chiu Chow. A lot of shark's fin, though not the usual millionaire's dish, the best going for only $230. But we needed neither this nor the bird's nest (around $250 per person). After our Iron Buddha tea, we plunked for another Chiu Chow speciality, the scallops. If Chiu Chow people can't sautee scallops so they come out tender, firm with a hint of vinegar and garlic, then they don't deserve their name. These scallops were never chewy or rubbery, but never tough either. The added spices, spring onion and vinegar gave them a very tangy taste. Next, we plunked for the season speciality, pea tendrils. Now most people think that in wintertime, customers are cursing the waiters by shouting ''Damn you!''. No, they're simply asking for dahm yiu, pea tendrils which appear only around winter, lightly sauteed in a chicken stock. Our third dish was the only relatively boring one, fried beef with soy bean and chili. It tasted like it does in a hundred other restaurants. Not so with the chicken, the fried chicken with chin jiu leaf. The chin jiu - ''pearl leaf'' - is one of God's creations. Almost impossible to get outside of Asia, this leaf is dry, crisp and melts in the mouth. Prawn balls were the final course. They weren't distinctive, but were tasty, a bit spicy with vinegar, and made a nice balance with the rest of the meal. For three people, this was quite a hearty dinner. The wine - that endless jug which became hotter and hotter as the meal went on - provided all the liquid refreshment we needed for a very jolly party. With Hong Kong prices, we tried to conjecture the price, and went up to the $800 mark. But no, the best surprise of all was that the whole tab came to $519. By Hong Kong standards, this was practically a bargain. And by any diner's standards, finding a new reasonable tasty restaurant was worth being ejected from a one-time favourite.