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Moving on to an eatery with the Midas touch

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Golden City Chiu Chow Restaurant 2/F, 68 Nathan Road opposite Hyatt Hotel Tsim Sha Tsui Tel 311-0333 Open 11 am-midnight daily WE were thrown out of my favourite post-concert Kowloon restaurant last week, but not for anything which had been written, not because we were badly dressed or badly-behaved.

But no, my favourite, Crystal Jade Restaurant was so packed with diners, standing even at 10.15 pm, that we were quickly shown the door. The door led from the third floor restaurant to the second floor. And in culinary terms, far more distant, from Cantonese to Chiu Chow.

But Golden City is not your ordinary rather sleazy Chiu Chow restaurant. It doesn't have the cigarette-smoking racing-mag types, trying to look like Hong Kong movie gangsters. Golden City is almost sedate.

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The room is unprepossessing, holding about 200 people. The table-cloths are clean, music non-existent, and waitresses and waiters extremely pleasant.

Not all of them spoke much English, but they were ready to summon a head waitress whose menu-English was excellent.

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For six years Golden City has quietly survived, usually getting the late-comers or riff-raff from upstairs. But, from our single experience, with admirable food.

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