US Navy Commodore Matthew Perry put Shimoda on the map in 1854; it was here that the Japan-US treaty that opened the isolated country to the world was signed. Perry's black ships are still remembered with an annual festival in the port city, as popular with foreign guests now as it was more than 150 years ago. Shimoda is situated on the Izu Peninsula and has become a second home to Tokyo's international community, some of whom rent houses in the area to take advantage of the pretty white beaches.
Suzukatsu Doll Store (2-10-26 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 22 0766) stocks a selection of handmade Japanese dolls of the type given to girls on their coming-of-age birthdays of three, five and seven. These ornate figurines are enclosed in glass boxes and cost as much as 64,575 yen (HK$4,230). Still expensive but better value are the mobiles made from hand-sewn Japanese fabric remnants (9,975 yen). These can be spotted in various stores around town and make unique gifts.
Kirinya (2-10-26 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 22 2700) is a two-floor men's and women's clothing and accessories store. Fashionable young things might not find anything trendy but practical types go for the selection of sunhats (399 yen), ideal for the heat of the seaside. Arret (2-3-27 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 23 3027) is both cafe and women's boutique, meaning browsers can peruse tops and skirts while nursing a 300-yen coffee. Nagasakiya (2-11-17 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 22 2449) specialises in omiyagi, or souvenirs. Buying omiyagi is a Japanese obligation that amounts to apologising to colleagues for taking a holiday, obliging them to hold the fort. Nagasakiya will wrap then ship purchases throughout Japan, particularly popular items such as its teapots and matching cups (5,250 yen).
Maruya (3-2-9 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 22 0986) is a small toy shop noted for its scale models. A 1/150-scale model of the Susquehanna sailing boat, a vessel that plies local waters, regularly sails off the shelves for 10,290 yen. The Shimoda Fishing Store (3-10-1 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 22 1020) sells 280-yen fishing nets for those who fancy a stab at catching their own supper. Kazamachi (3-13-12 Shichikenchiyo, tel: 81 558 23 3269) is located on historic Perry Road (top right), an appealing street lined with buildings, some housing gift stores (above right), from the commodore's era. This antiques shop has a coffee bar at its rear, allowing you time to consider possible purchases, such as a 60-year-old glass sweet jar costing 15,000 yen.
Shosendo (3-9-5 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 22 1124) sells handmade confectionery, purportedly Shimoda's best. Nearby, Nishindo (3-3-7 Shimoda, tel: 81 558 22 2263) sells madeleine cakes in packs of five for 682 yen. One of Japan's most controversial authors, Yukio Mishima, who infamously committed suicide in 1970 by disembowelling himself, was a big fan and regularly bought the sponge cakes from the decades-old family store. Pure Marine (3-13-11 Shichikenchiyo, tel: 81 0 558 22 5350) is a tiny boutique selling silver and shell accessories. Seashell necklaces start at 1,800 yen. Gallery and Cafe Sogabo (3-14-6 Shichikenchiyo, tel: 81 558 27 1123) is located inside an old wooden Japanese home. The owner commissions local potters to create bowls and plates that she paints with simple Japanese brushstrokes. Bowls start at 7,800 yen.