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Paul Kay

1/F Regal Kowloon Hotel, 71 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel: 2313 8778

Open: noon-3pm, 6pm to 11pm

Cuisine: Steak and seafood grill.

Ambience: Like the hotel in which it's located, the Mezzo Grill boasts decor that would have been the height of fashion 20 years ago, but seems a little gaudy this side of the millennium. Loud, geometrically patterned carpets, copper ceilings and opaque glasswork induce 1980s flashbacks - although they're all new.   Most of the diners seemed to be guests at the hotel.

Price: A three-course meal without drinks costs about HK$400 per person, plus 10 per cent

service charge.

Pros: The service was attentive without being obtrusive and our waiter was  knowledgeable about the menu, offering helpful recommendations. The wine list offered an impressive selection from around the world.

Even the house wine was a highly quaffable tipple from the esteemed Margaret River region in Western Australia.

Cons: There was a lack of buzz about the place, with no music to create atmosphere.  A large flat-screen television in the far corner showed sports. We were originally  offered a table right  under it, but quickly moved to one that didn't make us feel  as if we were in a sports bar.

Recommended dishes: The oyster shooters with caviar (HK$98, left) were well presented on a long, glass tray, and the five sauces - roasted garlic remoulade, tomato salsa, lime sherbet, sambuca-infused tomato granite and jalapeno salsa - built up steadily in intensity from first to last.

The lobster, mango and avocado salad with lime dressing (HK$98) was subtly sweet and light, although a little more lobster would have been welcome.

For the main courses, the meat on the mesquite-smoked broiled ostrich skewer (HK$198) was lean and pleasantly gamey.

The surf and turf  comprised US tenderloin and  lobster (HK$248): the tenderloin was expertly cooked and wonderfully tender, while the lobster was succulent and buttery - even if it was smaller than a fair-sized king prawn.

For dessert, the lemon ganache tart  (HK$58) was soft and tangy,  and the iced  Grand Marnier souffle (HK$58) looked and tasted delightful.

What else? A five-course set dinner is available for HK$298, plus 10 per cent service charge.



Mezzo Grill