Turkey's Aegean coast

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Published: 12:00am, 8 Nov 2006

1 Olu Deniz

No Turkish travel agency or tourist information office is complete without a poster of Olu Deniz. The name translates as 'dead sea' and refers to the lagoon's calm waters, which are ideal for young children and popular with kayakers. The hypnotic beauty of the bay, with its sweep of white sand encircled by pine-cloaked mountains, has inevitably led to development. Summers are busy, although the lagoon itself is a designated conservation area. From autumn onwards is the best time to visit - the crowds have gone but the water remains warm enough for swimming and watersports. Paragliders also descend on Olu Deniz, drawn by smooth thermals and jaw-dropping vistas of emerald and turquoise (www.oludenizbeach.com/paragliding.html).

2 Ephesus

One of the largest and best-preserved classical sites in the world, Ephesus is considered by some historians to be the cradle of western civilisation. The origins of the city date from the neolithic age and the ancient site was continuously settled for almost 5,000 years until the 15th century. Day-trippers now pour in to scramble up the steeply tiered steps of the theatre, which seated 24,000 people and took 50,000 slave labourers 70 years to construct. The theatre has excellent acoustics and staged plays as well as Roman gladiatorial contests. Houses belonging to Ephesian families remain largely intact, as do rows of shops and the Celsus Library, built in AD135 (www.ephesusguide.com).

3 Kas

Set in a picturesque bay hemmed in by mountains that thwart voracious developers, Kas retains a bohemian feeling but welcomes yachties as readily as budget travellers. Although there are ancient tombs and an amphitheatre to investigate, Kas is really a place to relax. Plenty of hospitable hotels and pensions compete for your lira and the restaurants are excellent. A wide range of mezes, including stuffed peppers, fish cakes and vegetable pancakes, appears from the kitchen at Bahce. After dark, bars fill with sunburned tourists and raki-drinking locals. Buy a fisherman a drink and negotiate a deal for a boat trip to the hidden coves and bays along the craggy coastline.