Harbour Grill Peter Lehmann Wines is a household name in Australia and it runs its operations from the heart of South Australia's legendary Barossa Valley, a wine-growing area established by German settlers in the 1840s. Watson's Wine Cellars recently collaborated with Harbour Grill (G/F, Harbour Plaza Hong Kong, 20 Tak Fung Street, Hung Hom, 2996 8433) to promote the winery's new range with a wine dinner. A menu compiled by the restaurant's award-winning chefs pairs six Peter Lehmann wines and is introduced by the vineyard's chief winemaker Andrew Wigan. The Semillon Chardonnay 2005 was first, served with a selection of canapes. The young, dry white was light on the palate, as were the beautifully presented morsels, and imparted the slightest hint of lime. It was refreshing, although slightly on the acidic side of the scale. Next up was an Eden Valley Riesling 2005, partnered with a salmon and vegetable terrine. Peter Lehmann is particularly accomplished in making rieslings, a grape of German origin, and in July won the Riesling Trophy at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London for its 2001 Reserve Riesling. The Eden Valley 2005 was flowery on the nose and fruity to taste, each sip perfectly priming the palette for the delicate terrine. Less acidic than the Semillon Chardonnay but still crisp and refreshing, the riesling is a lesser-known white grape that deserves more recognition. The next pairing was a surprise: pan-fried foie gras with asparagus, caramelised apple and port wine sauce - served with a Barossa Chardonnay 2005. Few would have thought a white wine was suitable for such a rich dish, red wines being the preferred choice. Surprisingly, though, the delicate yet complex chardonnay, with its slight hint of oak, provided a perfect counterpoint for the delicious, creamy goose liver. According to Mr Wigan, white wine and foie gras is a popular combination in the Bordeaux region of France. Less acidic than the Semillon Chardonnay, the Barossa Chardonnay 2005 was crisp and light but still fruity. It is difficult to imagine anyone not liking this wine. Peter Lehmann is perhaps best-known for its shiraz and at last it was time to taste a couple. The first, The Futures Shiraz 2003, was served with porcini mushroom and pecorino cheese tortellini, a mouthwatering combination. The pasta, cooked with tenderness and served with a mound of crunchy pecorino cheese shavings, was tasty and strong and demanded a wine that could stand up to it. Dark, rich and very fruity, the Futures Shiraz more than adequately rose to the occasion. Seductively smooth as a result of its fine-grained tannins, one taste of the Futures made it clear that 2003 was a good year for red wines in the Barossa. The valley is home to many 100- to 150-year-old vines, testimony to the region's long wine-making tradition - which brings us to the last red wine of the evening, The Stonewell Shiraz 2000. Stonewell is the top Barossa Shiraz and is made from the grapes of low-yielding vines in the drier western parts of the region. Many of these vines are more than 100 years old and produce only small bunches of tiny fruit. The 2000 vintage produced even less than usual, making that year's Stonewell Shiraz particularly smooth and velvety with more than a hint of dark chocolate. Matured in oak, the Stonewell is bursting with berries but is kept in balance by its fine tannins. Served with perfectly cooked roast lamb loin in a crust of summer truffles and parsley, this heavenly marriage of food and wine was the highlight of the evening. To round off, the chefs prepared crispy apple tart and chocolate souffle cakes with vanilla ice cream. These were served with a dessert wine, the Barossa Botrytis Noble Semillon 2005. Peter Lehmann is understandably proud of its latest botrytis semillon. Past vintages have garnered several awards and, thanks to ideal climactic conditions last year, the 2005 pressing, while still young, is very drinkable and promises to age superbly. Mr Wigan said that in the Barossa Valley the botrytis fungus, or 'noble rot', was encouraged by gentle irrigated misting after dark. The fungus draws water out of the grapes, concentrating the flavours inside. The result is a powerfully fruity, honey-flavoured wine with a well-balanced tangy, acidic finish that will leave one reaching for another sip. Dessert wines (known as 'stickies' in Australia) are not to everyone's taste, but devotees will find Peter Lehmann's version a treat; a little lighter and cleaner than expected and more suited to the contemporary palette than heavier dessert wines.
