HIS: Symbols that make a statement

Dickson Yewn designs jewellery in a pronounced conceptual style. His jewellery brand, Life of Circle, is based on Chinese culture and philosophy. Using fine silver as the medium, he draws inspiration and ideas from the Taoist philosophy of nature, I-Ching. He explains why men wear jewellery - and the accessories they prefer MEN HAVE ALWAYS worn jewellery, from the days of the Roman Empire through the various dynasties in China. Jewellery was worn for status and practical reasons (archers of old wore a ring on the index finger as a target guide). Today, there are so many other items that can symbolise taste and elegance - an expensive Swiss watch, designer spectacles, a fancy cellular phone, or even an iPod - but jewellery still has a place. Most men who wear jewellery today belong to five different groups. Type One The 15 to 25-year-olds with basic to higher education. They are under peer pressure to wear things which identify them with their friends. They might wear silver dog tags or silver bracelets with different motifs (predominantly animal prints, religious and cult symbols). Type Two Men who wear symbols made in either jade or gold, given to them by their mothers or girlfriends. They usually do not show their like or dislike for the object, but wear it more as an amulet. Type Three Men who wear jewellery to show off their wealth (just like women do). Usually, a diamond encrusted or single diamond ring worn on the pinky finger. These men are mature and relatively rich, but do not realise that such ostentation can be considered bad taste. Type Four Men who wear wedding bands. However, today there are many who do not want to show they are married and wear the band on a neck chain. Type Five Men who wear cufflinks. It is a very British thing, but still around and remains the most likely item a woman would buy for a man. I guess 10 per cent of the jewellery I design is for men, or is bought by women for men. Most of my silver jewellery is unisex, such as the new Zodiac Safari collection, the Double Happiness and the Auspicious collection. It is fun designing unisex jewellery because you can look at it as objet d'art, not confined to a single gender. That is why I like animals - there are hundreds of thousands of species, some of which have no sex at all. Unisex jewellery is trendy, and it really goes well with your casual appearance. My Safari collection features footprints of the Chinese zodiac animals in 925 sterling silver plated with rhodium white gold. The range includes pendants, bracelets and rings, and will soon be available in 18-carat gold with diamonds. I love going on safari in Africa and two years ago, while on safari in India, I saw for the first time in the wild a Bengal tigress with her two cubs. My legs were trembling - not out of fear but out of respect for the majestic beauty of this animal. This encounter inspired the Zodiac Safari collection, of which 15 per cent of sales go to the Save China's Tigers fund (www.savechinastigers.org). Of course, jewellery conveys a message, so when buying as a gift it matters what you choose. Many see jewellery as an amulet, which is meant to be worn for protection. Women want their men to be protected from evil, especially from other women. Very rarely do women buy rings for men. It is a globalised culture. A ring means an engagement, a commitment and, from a social standpoint, women do not normally ask for a man's hand in marriage, even if they really want to. As for cufflinks, I think women buy them to show their appreciation and respect for the man and his career. They also know that behind every successful man there is a special woman, and they want to be that woman. With my jewellery, symbolic meanings can be easily conveyed. Top selling items for men are cufflinks and pendants. Men also buy bracelets in thick, chunky silver. But pendants are the most popular because men like to show off their chests and pendants attract attention to that part of the anatomy. As for motifs, religious and auspicious symbols are preferred. Zodiac symbols are quite manly, but if you believe in fung shui, be careful what you buy for fear of offending the presiding god of a particular lunar year. As long as you are in harmony with yourself and fear no fear, you can wear either your birth sign or the sign of the animal you would like to be. Dog tags are very popular because men see them as macho. Every army in the world uses dog tags for identity purposes. I do not wear much jewellery, like a chef who barely has an appetite for food. But if I were to receive a gift of jewellery, I would like it to be a pendant. I like symbols that are not just beautiful but also convey the message of the giver.