1 Inner Harbour
Baltimore's Inner Harbour, slightly bigger than Hong Kong's, has a rich history. In the earliest days of colonial America it was the site of battles against the British and an important port for shipping tobacco. Today, the harbour, filled with heritage vessels of all descriptions, is a scenic magnet for tourists. Its centrepiece is the historic tall ship the USS Constellation. Launched in 1854 and used off the coast of Africa to intercept slave traders, the beautifully restored ship is now open to visitors. Flags flutter on the soaring masts and at noon each day the crew, dressed in crisp 19th-century uniforms, fire the old cannons. Standing on the oak-plank deck looking out over the harbour, it's hard not to imagine life as a sailor two centuries ago.
2 Black history tour
Baltimore has a vibrant African-American population and a profound black history. The city was home to abolitionist Frederick Douglass, an important member of the anti-slavery organisation the Underground Railroad, and the birthplace of jazz singer Billie Holiday. The best way to enjoy the past and present of Baltimore's black community is to take a tour with Tom Saunders (
www.renaissanceproductions. com), who visits landmarks such as the National Great Blacks in Wax Museum (1601 East North Avenue;
www.ngbiwm.com), with its renditions of jazz greats and heroes of the civil rights movement, and an 18th-century church with a secret tunnel that was part of escaped slaves' route to freedom. Saunders also knows all the best little jazz joints, such as the cosy and atmospheric New Haven Lounge (1552 Havenwood Road) and soul-food eateries such as New Duffy's Restaurant and Lounge (3436 Frederick Avenue).
3 Water taxi
There are many ways to get around Baltimore, but the most novel and amusing is by way of the little blue and white water taxis (
www.thewatertaxi. com) that zip commuters across the Inner Harbour to any number of Baltimore's sites. Cammie Kane, who owns the 13 boats with names such as Indefatigable and Intrepid, loves the harbour and its history and so do her captains, who have lots of sea stories to share with passengers. The boats stop at 14 landings, including an old fortress, Fort McHenry; Little Italy, home to many of Baltimore's Italian restaurants; and historic Fells Point.