The spectrum of flavours roughly corresponds to four colours. At one end are uplifting, refreshing blonde notes and at the other, extremely rich and hearty brown flavours. Between the two are ivory and tan flavours. In addition, there are base flavours such as onion and garlic, and high flavours such as lemongrass and chilli. Classic French onion soup has both base and tan flavours, and is best paired with drinks with similar characteristics. The clear but deeply flavoured broth can be altered drastically with additions such as cognac and the aniseed liquor pastis. The soup is topped with gratineed gruyere cheese on toast, which makes it more substantial. Hennessy XO cognac Cognac is a classic pairing with (and/or flavouring in) many French dishes such as steak tartare, lobster bisque and flambeed crepes. Cognac flavours get browner as the liquor gets older, however, and the best old cognac needs a good balance of mature brown flavours and freshness to lift the flavour. Hennessy is the market leader in Asia, and for good reasons. It's hugely complex, yet harmonious. Nuances such as cinnamon, nutmeg, Brazil nuts, raisins, floral and honey are noticeable and blend in well with the rich base of French onion soup. A small spoonful of Hennessy XO added to piping hot soup will release deep, exotic aromas. The combination is brought to a high point with the rich gruyere cheese croutons giving the dish textural contrast and exaggerating its base notes and oiliness. It's a simple, classy and complete combination. Available for HK$1,150 from Riche Monde (tel: 2976 1888) Pernod pastis The taste and medicinal properties of aniseed are well known in Europe, where it's one of the most prized digestive aids. You either like it or you don't. And although the French may have put their nation's stamp on aniseed flavoured liquors, the Greeks, Turks and Portuguese aren't far behind with their own unique versions. If you can close your eyes to the taboo of mixing these two traditionally unmixable French products you'll be rewarded with a striking yet delicate interaction of flavours. The aniseed extends the onion base notes and enhances rather than dilutes the focused flavours. It also sets a good tone for the almost impenetrable gruyere cheese. Available for HK$189 from Pernod Ricard (tel: 2378 7955) Carruades de Lafite 2001, Pauillac, Bordeaux Carruades de Lafite is one of the smartest and truest of Bordeaux 'second' wines, made whenever the grapes aren't considered excellent enough for a chateau's main wine. The sorting process for grapes at Lafite is merciless and you can expect the same high standard and quality in the Carruades. This classy Bordeaux pairs with French onion soup probably more for the benefit of the gruyere toast. But the soup can also handle the wine's elegance and perfumed fruit notes. If the soup is your starter, whatever is left of the Carruades will go with other classic French dishes. Available for HK$1,150 from Omtis (tel: 2333 0241) simon@iwinecentre.com