Shop 2, Level 1, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Road Tel: 2849 5123 Open: 11.30am-midnight Cuisine: Modern Australian. Ambience: You no longer need to be a waxwork dummy to feel at home in the Peak Tower. The sophisticated set has moved onwards and upwards from Central to this slick, sleek eyrie that comes into its own after dark, presenting a glittering city far below - at least on a clear night. Muted lighting, black tiles, glass and steel supplement a glamour quota continually topped up by the 'beautiful people', some of whom work here. Price: About HK$600 per person (without drinks) and 10 per cent service charge. The dry, highly palatable Perrin Reserve Cotes du Rhone blanc cost HK$90 per glass. Pros: Location, location, location. It is difficult to imagine a better setting; sitting halfway up in the sky induces a feeling of lording it over the rabble below and of being master of all you survey. The multi-award-winning executive chef is Geoff Lindsay, whose original Pearl restaurant is considered one of Melbourne's finest. Cons: Yes, those views are sensational, but although the restaurant is fairly intimate not everybody can enjoy them all the time because only eight tables sit next to the floor-to-ceiling windows. Recommended dishes: The first dish is free and may seem like the prop in a practical joke, but try it anyway. Deep-fried hibiscus flower with spices has, you eventually realise, the texture of fried nori (dried seaweed sheets). The signature-dish starter of pearl meat (HK$180) - from world pearl capital Broome, Australia - is smokily flash-fried with shiitake mushrooms, chive buds, ginger and soy. Served on a mother of pearl shell, it had us perplexed. In fact, it is the muscle oysters use to open and close their shells. Equally appetising is the chickpea soup (HK$95) with za'atar, haloumi cheese and mint fritters - good enough to fight over - along with the palate-cleansing shaved radish salad. There may be plenty of fish in the sea but they don't all taste as good as Pearl's peppered seabass with fresh green peppercorns, (HK$280) served with celery braised in Beaujolais cru and caramelised onion mashed potato. Less successful is the whole Dover sole (HK$320). Don't order if on a date because you'll spend the evening picking bones out of your teeth. A shared dessert of Valrhona chocolate souffle (HK$90, above) with caramel tart, coffee bean ice cream and a sliver of chocolate shaped like Salvador Dali's moustache is a deceptively filling end to a dinner long on style and substance. What else? Attached to the side of the establishment is an outdoor terrace with yet more picture-postcard views. But we'll save that for summer.