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Jade Lee-Duffy

G/F Arbuthnot House, 10 Arbuthnot Road, Central

Tel: 2801 6768

Open: Monday-Saturday noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm (last orders)

Cuisine: French

Ambience: The decor is a cross between a wine cellar and a French country house in Provence, with exposed wooden  beams,  finely embroidered linens  on the tables and pretty pink flower patterns decorating  porcelain dishes. Eclectic knick-knacks  such as cat figures sit next to silver teapots. The open kitchen gives a slight buzz to an otherwise relaxed atmosphere. The throne-like toilet in the women's washroom was a royal surprise.

Price: Set menu only with dinner of three-courses for HK$420, or four-courses for HK$475, plus 10 per cent service charge. For lunch and early dinner (6pm-7.30pm, Monday-Wednesday only), there's a two-course set menu for HK$190 and three-courses for HK$220.

Pros: The servers were knowledgeable,  but happy to  seek answers from the chef to questions they didn't know. Portions were good value. We also liked the set-menu approach.

Cons:  We would  have liked more generous servings of wine (starting from HK$70 per glass).  The hazelnut chocolate bomb with citrus chocolate sauce didn't wow us with an explosion of flavour.

Recommended dishes:  We were blown away by goat cheese gnocchi with white asparagus and chanterelles. The gnocchi were as light and fluffy as cotton balls, while the asparagus retained a crisp bite and was accented with slivers of baby purple shiso herb. The kabocha squash and blue crab soup was thick and creamy, but the seafood notes  overpowered the subtle squash.

For mains, the roasted sirloin and Wagyu beef cheek served with French beans on a bed of mashed potatoes and red-wine sauce didn't disappoint. Each bite of the beef cheek (left) almost melted in the mouth. The large chunks of roasted tuna with tiny chorizo cubes and clams was a sublime combination of  flavours and textures.

We ended with the aromatic spiced espresso creme brulee,  but it seemed to be more like a thick cream than a custard-like cream brulee.

What else? Former chef of Felix at the Peninsula, Bryan Nagao, is now executive chef of the restaurant. The menu changes every month.



Chez Moi