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Susan Jung

I love cheese, especially ripe, soft, pungent varieties (although I had a hard time with one nicknamed 'suppositoire du diable' - it was so strong I couldn't eat more than a bite). A beautiful cheese platter makes a fine ending to an indulgent meal, but it's not something I could have every day. I frequently cook with cheese, using mild, fresh cheeses in desserts and stronger varieties in savoury preparations. Cheese figures prominently in the following dishes, so don't serve them to cheese-o-phobics.

Cheese fondue (left)

This is a classic recipe but there have been numerous variations on it. In addition to French bread, you can dip vegetables (such as raw baby zucchini and carrots, new potatoes - boiled  until just tender - and strips of yellow and red capsicum) into the fondue. Serve with cornichons (pickled gherkins) and white wine or beer.

1 garlic clove, halved

350ml dry white wine

450 grams Emmental, cut in small dice

450 grams Gruyere, cut in small dice

15ml Kirsch

1 tbsp potato starch or cornstarch

French bread, cut into 2cm cubes

Rub the inside of the fondue pot with the cut ends of the garlic, then discard the clove. Add the white wine to the pot and heat over a medium flame until very hot but not simmering. Reduce heat to low and add the cheese, about 150 grams at a time, stirring constantly and letting the cheese melt fully before adding more. When all the cheese is incorporated, dissolve the potato starch or cornstarch in the Kirsch and stir it into the mixture. Stir over a medium-low heat until the mixture is thick, smooth and hot, but not simmering. Place the pot on a fondue heater and serve with cubes of French bread.

Macaroni and cheese

You can vary the flavour of macaroni and cheese, depending on the cheese you use, but choose types that melt smoothly and aren't overwhelmingly assertive. This is best with a combination of at least two cheeses.

400 grams macaroni

50 grams unsalted butter, plus extra for buttering

the baking dish

80 grams finely minced onion

30 grams plain flour

500ml whole milk

300 grams grated cheese such as Cheddar (sharp or mild), Gouda or Emmental (or use a combination of

all three)

50 grams finely grated Parmesan, divided

1 tbsp grainy mustard

A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

A few drops of Tabasco

A few drops of Worcestershire sauce

25 grams panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Boil the pasta until al dente, then drain and set aside. Thoroughly butter a 20cm-square baking dish (or another pan  of similar dimensions; you can also use six individual-serving ramekins).

While the pasta is cooking, make the sauce. Melt 50 grams of butter in a heavy saucepan, add the onion and cook over a low heat until soft and translucent.

Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for several minutes. Add the milk about 100ml at a time, whisking the mixture to remove any lumps before adding more milk. When all the milk is added, stir over a low heat for about 10 minutes to thicken the sauce. Stir in the grated cheese, 25 grams of Parmesan, the mustard, nutmeg, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Stir until the cheese is fully melted, then combine with the pasta and transfer to the baking dish

or ramekins. Combine the panko with the remaining Parmesan and sprinkle over the surface. Bake for

20-30 minutes or until the macaroni and cheese is brown and bubbling.

Tartiflette

This dish is adapted from a recipe in Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook,  in which he writes: 'You can never have too much cheese, bacon or starch.' Although the dish is listed in the starter section, it's so rich and heavy it can suffice as a main course, served with a green salad dressed with a sharp vinaigrette.

1kg  potatoes (Bourdain doesn't specify which type, but the smooth-skinned local potatoes work well)

25ml vegetable oil

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

225 grams pancetta, rind removed

170ml white wine

450 grams Reblochon cheese, cut into small pieces

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Put the potatoes in a pot large enough to hold them in one layer, cover with cool water, then heat over a medium-high flame. Bring to the boil, lower heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender but not overcooked. Drain and rinse with cool water. As soon as the potatoes are cool enough to handle, pull off and discard the skin, then cut into small cubes.

Dice the pancetta. Heat the oil in a skillet, add the onion and cook over a medium-high heat for several minutes, or until  golden. Add the pancetta and cook until brown. Stir in the potatoes, wine and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat until most of the wine is absorbed, stirring occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 175 degrees Celsius. Spread half the potato mixture into a porcelain baking dish and top with half the Reblochon. Repeat the layering, then bake at 175 degrees for about 20 minutes, or until brown and bubbling. Serve piping hot.

Styling: Rachael Macchiesi



Say cheese