HONG Kong emigrants run Chinese restaurants the world over. On arrival in a new country, establishing a Cantonese restaurant has proved to be one of the most popular routes to success.
In Cape Town, South Africa, however, Larry Chung has won the loyalty of local residents with a restaurant serving Thai food. Sukhuthai, South Africa's first upmarket Thai restaurant, has them willingly opening their wallets for a taste of the East.
Chung has consistently refused to bow to expectations and is the antithesis of the stereotype Chinese restaurateur. Remarkably sanguine about his success, he is relaxed and tanned, casually dressed in denims.
Clearly in love with his adopted country, Chung greets everyone who passes with open candour. He seems to know them all.
''South Africa is so beautiful,'' he says. ''I've travelled all over the world but have never been anywhere which offers so much.
''Of course I work hard, but the leisure opportunities here are unequalled. I can dive in warm waters, fish, go hiking in the mountains and drink superb quality wines from the nearby vineyards for next to nothing.'' Having left Hong Kong to study in England at the age of 16, Chung has no desire to return. He is often in the territory on business or to visit his brother, but is incredulous at the way people live.
''There's too much noise and too many people. I sense hostility when I return,'' he says. ''Capetonians are the opposite. They are very relaxed about life, very friendly.'' With Oriental food still a novelty in South Africa, despite the growing number of Asian immigrants, many doubted Sukhuthai would last. Low-key decor and an unprepossessing location in the quiet Gardens district of the city added to the doubts.