Via Partenope 45

This is one of the most magnificent restaurants in southern Italy, if not the Mediterranean. Named for the tenor Enrico Caruso, its views over the Bay of Naples (right) are stupendous, as is the cuisine. The signature dish is fettuccine made with the freshest tomatoes and peppers, while the mussels pasta with fresh garlic and virgin olive oil is also delicious. A piquant white fish, called pezzogna, which is found only in local waters, is sometimes featured on the menu, although it's usually snapped up fast. The desserts are varied and beautifully presented. Prices are naturally high - with mains at about Euro20 (HK$188) - but more than worth it.

La Cantinella

Via Cuma 42

Moments after pressing the bell at the slightly intimidating front door of La Cantinella you're admitted to Naples' grilled seafood heaven. There's more besides, especially the four different styles of risotto (Euro15), including one with champagne.

If you're dazzled by the menu, dig into whatever you fancy on the groaning antipasto table, then plump for the penne pasta with vodka, or linguine mixed with scampi and seafood (Euro13).

Pizzaria Brandi

Via Chiaia

Ever had a pizza Margherita? This is where it originated, when the owner, Raffaele Esposito, was told to come up with a dish for a royal banquet. Inspired by the colours of the national flag he used basil, tomato and mozzarella and - hey, pesto - named it after the queen. A replica is yours for Euro6. Brandi also serves other dishes, but you really go there for the pizza. It's open until midnight, but you almost always need a reservation.

Vini e Cucina

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 762

The name - meaning 'wines and kitchen' - says it all. Coming out of the Mergellina metro station you'll probably see a queue outside Vini e Cucina. Join it. There are only 20 tables inside, but even if the owners doubled the size of their premises their hungry customers would still be clamouring to get in. The fuss is chiefly about the ragout sauce, which - taken with a steaming plate of al dente spaghetti - is reputed to be the best in the city. Best of all, the place is reasonably priced, with nothing costing more than Euro7.50.

La Stanza del Gusto

Vicoletto Sant'Arpino 21

One of Naples' most charismatic chefs, cheese and wine expert Mario Avallone rules the roost here, changing the menu regularly to make the best use of seasonal fare. Take your pick of his roast lamb with ginger, eggplant pie with smoked dried cod, octopus timballo with a potato cream sauce or pasta with swordfish and saffron, or go for one of the set menus priced from Euro35-Euro60. The rice ice cream topped with a blackberry sauce is essential for rounding off a truly Neapolitan dining experience.