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SCMP Reporter

A trip to the tailor needn't be daunting if you familiarise yourself with these sartorial terms.

American style (sack, Ivy League)

The boxy silhouette with no padding and a single centre vent was designed by the Brook Brothers in 1895. The updated version of this may have padded shoulders, a tapered wasit and double or no vents (see below).

Athletic cut

In response to men with muscular upper bodies and narrow waists, the athletic cut has an eight to 10 drop (see below) and the jacket is cut fuller.

Bluffed edge

Lapels with no visible stiching.

Button stance

The top button of a two-button jacket or the middle of a three-button jacket should be in line with the navel.

Drop

The numerical difference between the jacket size and the trouser size. A six-inch drop is standard, meaning a size 40 jacket comes with 34-inch waist trousers and a size 42 jakcet is paired with 36-inch trousers.

Fabric grade

You might often hear the words 'super 100' or 'super 120'. This refers to the fabric grade or the length in centimetres one woolen yarn is stretched. Higher numbers mean longer yarn and a finer and lighter fabric weight.

Flower hole

Bespoke suits will have a half-inch hole in the left lapel in which a flower can be placed.

Italian style

This style has padded shoulders, single vents (see below) and a suppressed waist (see below) on the jacket.

Notch lapel

A notch is cut out between the collar and lapel. This is what is most commonly seen on standard business suits.

Peak lapel

The top of the lapel is pointed sharply upward and outward. It is considered more elegant than the notch lapel.

Pick stitched

Stitching at the edge of the lapel to give a hand-tailored look.

Rise

The length from the crotch seam to the top of the trouser waist. Typically, a short rise is 101/2 inches, a regular rise is 11 inches and a long rise is 111/4 inches.

Savile Row

A street in London and the home of traditional, bespoke tailoring. The 'Savile Row' or 'British' style has a slightly suppressed waist (see below), double vents, higher armholes for greater movement and defined shoulders.

Suppressed waist

A British-style cut where the jacket hugs the body around the waist. American-style suits fall straight down from the armpit.

Trouser cuffs

Trousers are often sold un-hemmed, but cuffs are traditional on suit trousers. The standard length is one-and-a-half inches, but his can vary depending on your height.

Ventless

Jacket with no openings on the back bottom. The no-vent look was popular in the 1980s and early 90s but is now considered a sartorial faux pas.

Vents

The opening in the lower part of a seam on the back bottom of the jacket to allow for greater movement. The classic length of a vent is five inches, but this can go up to 12 inches. There are two styles. Side vents (double vents) are two openings on the right- and left-hand sides of the back bottom of the jacket. This is more practical as it allows to sit without wrinkling the jacket and is a typically British style; a centre vent (singe vent) is one opening in the centre back bottom of the jacket. This is more of an American tradition.



Suits You, Sir