Ready for take-off

The runways of the world have been scrutinised and salivated over as designers unveil their autumn/winter collections. Next season's trends include leaner, more wearable silhouettes and tailoring that highlights the shoulders. Innovative fabrics and bursts of colour complete the looks.

NEW YORK

Sunday, February 4

Winter has collided with Fashion Week in New York as the temperature drops below freezing for the first time this year, but at Diane von Furstenberg, it's all about hot-blooded Spain - the designer cites Gaudi, Goya and Miro as her inspirations. The connection is seen in the many mosaic-tile prints and pimento, magenta and black palette. Winners include bollowing chiffon blouses, a flouncy skirt and a cute velvet romper.

Across town, Luella Bartley's collection is English all the way, with a bright red hunting coat, Sgt Pepper uniforms and debutante frocks.

At his West Side show, Phillip Lim gets it right with models dressed as story-book characters: an artist in a romantic painter blouse and pleated smock; an updated fairy in a tulle trapeze dress with giant red polka dots; the wicked sister dolled up in a copper, box-pleated number; and the happy ending: a gossamer white column dress with tulip pleats and sash waist.

Drama comes in every size and shade in Matthew Williamson?s nice-but-where-can-I-wear-this? collection. Models seem to pulsate light in silk georgette cocktail dresses dripping in sequins, metal and mirrors. Other styles are completely in silver or adorned with multicoloured gem-stones. Nubby boucle coats in red and green and a massive hide-inside-it cowl build up the tempo.