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Modern jade

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The new jade section at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show earlier this month signifies a growing demand for jade jewellery. Designers are incorporating jade into their contemporary pieces, mixing it with diamonds and other materials for a younger, fresher look.

Jade is a generic term for two different minerals - nephrite and jadeite. 'Nephrite has been used in Chinese works of art, including carvings and accessories such as belt hooks and hair ornaments since the Neolithic period,' says Pansy Ku of Christie's jewellery and watch department. 'The green stone used for jewellery is jadeite from Burma.'

In the past, mostly green jade was cut into cabochons, beads and hoops for jewellery. Jade dealer and jewellery designer Samuel Kung says popular designs for jadeite now range from floral and nature themes with diamonds and other coloured stones, to designs inspired by Oriental elements such as Chinese eternity knots and auspicious motifs.

'With its seven natural colours, jadeite is one of the most interesting and versatile gems, as its hardness and toughness allow almost any shape to form with incredible shininess,' he says. Besides green, jade also comes in lavender, yellow, red, black, glass (also called ice jade) and white.

Kung says modern designs featuring Oriental elements are popular among young customers. Jewellery designer Sandra d'Auriol suggests classic pieces such as jade bangles and saddle rings.

Vicki Chan, general manager of Continental Diamonds, picks out pendants and dangling earrings for younger wearers. 'Pendants are easy to match and the ones with modern designs can be fashion statements,' she says. Look for designs featuring geometric patterns mixed with other materials, such as a bangle designed by Kung that mixes lavender jade with wood and diamonds.

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