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Washington

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Judith Ritter

Blue Duck Tavern

1201 24th Street, NW (www.blueducktavern.com)

Washington is an upmarket meat and potatoes town. Steakhouses in which to make deals and smoke cigars abound, but there's a growing number of more ethnic and challenging cuisines out there, as well as new spins on traditional American cuisine. Traditional cooking methods, seasonal produce from nearby Amish farms and a slow roasting wood-burning oven are attracting DC politicians and patricians in droves for the roasted venison, galantine of quail and sage-scented rabbit. Spiced pumpkin comes from New York's Hudson Valley, the sweet potato corn grits are from a mill in South Carolina and the Toigo Farm in Pennsylvania is responsible for roasted sunchokes, a smoky flavoured root vegetable once a staple of Native Americans. Mains cost US$20 to US$80.

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Le Paradou

678 Indiana Avenue, NW (www.leparadou.net)
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This elegant French restaurant is the real deal. It's stylish, minimalist and romantic, with a ceiling of fibre-optic starry lights. Chef Yannick Cam's amuse bouche, such as the delicate ceviche of sea scallop with grapefruit segments, or the lobster purse with carrot and ginger sauce, are tiny works of art. The vast cellar has an extensive wine selection. The prix fixe dinner menu, with a choice of six or nine courses, costs from US$115 to US$150.

Jaleo

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