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Hong Kong has long enjoyed a reputation as one of the world's great fine dining cities, but the truth is most of the restaurants here have lacked originality and creativity; someone comes up with an idea and others jump in to copy the concept. The good news, however, is that something magical has happened over the past six months: the Hong Kong restaurant scene has made a quantum leap. Top international names such as Pierre Gagnaire, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa and Joel Robuchon are finally here, after being in the region for years. Creative dining concepts are emerging and the overall quality of these new restaurants is high. You may truthfully say it now: Hong Kong is a great city for dining. Here are 10 of the most notable new arrivals. Style in four zones Aspasia 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3763 8888 CHEF ROLAND IS BACK. That was part of the sales pitch that accompanied the restaurant's opening. Roland Schuller, an Italian-trained chef of Austrian descent, has worked with Michelin three-star chef Georges Blanc. In Hong Kong, he is known as the man behind the former Alfred's Deli, once the fine dining restaurant in Happy Valley. He subsequently opened Chez Roland in Causeway Bay and Roland's Terrace in Wan Chai, before leaving Hong Kong to take up executive chef positions in Europe. When he's not cooking, Chef Schuller may be seen chatting to Aspasia customers. (The Aspasia sits on what was once the premises of the Windsor Hotel's Portobello Cafe.) The restaurant is divided into four zones: the bar (high-top cocktail tables, hot red bar stools and wine wall), the parlour (main dining area with plush sofas), the study (with a round table for wine tasting, leather sofa corner and window looking out on Kimberley Road), and the conservatory, which faces south and is filled with sunlight in the mornings and offers elegant Italian dining in the evenings. Regency-style furnishing, art deco serving counter, Chinese screens, martini-cigar chairs and spotlit paintings provide a strongly artistic ambience. Now on with the food. The broccoli flan with deep-fried buffalo mozzarella and vegetable crudites (HK$98) made an enjoyable start. The essence of the green vegetables was brought out, while the cheese added texture and a touch of 'decadence'. The escargots pizza (HK$178) with rosemary and pecorino cheese was wafer-thin and crisp, while the seafood in saffron couscous with red prawns and lobster (HK$188) and risotto with scallops and porcini mushrooms (HK$178) was scrumptious and fresh. The risotto was cooked in vegetable stock and basil cream, and a dash of wasabi gave a nice spicy after-note. Other dishes, though flavourful, were a tad rich for our tastes. The lasagnette (HK$168) with tomatoes and Robiola cheese would have been better with a shaving of Parmigiano than the soft cheese. (We could feel our arteries clogging even as we ate.) The braised beef cheek (HK$238), rich and tender, was appropriately placed on celery root puree. The moscato gelatine with mixed berries and lavender ice cream (HK$108) was a magical combination of fruitiness, sweetness and fragrance, while the many-layered Belgian chocolate cake with Catalan ice cream (an interesting take on crema catalana, Spain's version of creme brulee) and coffee sabayon (HK$108) came together wonderfully, like an orchestral performance. Aspasia is already an established restaurant that is destined to keep getting better. RH Ten heavenly courses L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F The Landmark, Central, 2166 9000 THE GAULT MILLAU guide's chef of the century Joel Robuchon has finally opened in Hong Kong. The norm at L'Atelier is to sit casually at the square bar counter surrounding the showcase kitchen, but there is also an intimate dining area with a limited number of tables and stylish private rooms with a view of the Central skyline. One way to sample Robuchon's genius is through the HK$1,450-per-head Menu Decouverte, a 10-course degustation experience that takes you from seafood to meat to sweet. The night we visited the experience started with an amuse bouche of chilled cucumber soup with crusted nut and diced cheese, a fine opening to the sensational l'oursin (sea urchin, in a lobster jelly, topped with a cauliflower cream). Le soupion (small squid, stuffed with olives and served with chorizo and tomato), was un peu overpowering, while the shellfish in la noix de Saint Jacques (sea scallops emulsion in conchiglioni, green cappuccino) could have been a tad less cooked. La langoustine (crispy langoustine papillote with pesto) had the fresh and sweet lobster wrapped in a delicate wonton wafer. Le foie gras (with winter fruits and ginger) and la caille (caramelised free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and truffled potato puree) were every bit as tasty as they sounded. But it was the other main course option, l'agneau (lamb cutlets with fresh thyme), that stole the show. Le 'shot' (yuzu and coquelicot syrup with crunchy hazelnut and citrus vinegar milk) opened the way to the sweet-astringent mango and island fruit coulis with orange-liqueur flavoured whipped cream. The wine list looked more like a book. The sommelier had us start with Conundrum '02 (HK$90 per glass), a blend of sauvignon, semillon, viognier, muscat and chardonnay. The 2003 Mer Soleil Chardonnay (HK$140) had even more vibrant fruits and a smooth body, and took us through the lobster and even the foie gras. The 2003 Belle Glos Pinot Noir (HK$120 a glass) had a smooth body, and its hints of pomegranate with cinnamon went well with the lamb and the quail. And how appropriate to wrap things up with a 2001 Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes (HK$160 per glass). The candied citrus, passion-fruit and mango notes were heavenly with the dessert. RH Japanese with cachet Nobu InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313 2323 AFTER MONTHS of waiting, diners have finally been rewarded with the Hong Kong incarnation of legendary Nobu. In London, New York and Los Angeles you have to book months ahead for a table at Nobu. The question is whether Hong Kong diners, who are savvy about Japanese food, will take to Nobu's way with Nippon cuisine, which includes such signature dishes as black cod saikyo yaki (grilled and marinated in sweet miso, HK$268), creamy spicy crab (HK$200), squid pasta with light garlic sauce (HK$165) and oyster filo (HK$90). But you can be sure the see-and-be-seen set will be there (supermodel Kate Moss has already graced the venue). We recommend the scallop tiradito (choose from whitefish, oyster, live octopus or razor clam, HK$200-HK$240) served with a spicy dressing (reflecting Chef Matsuhisa's years in South America) and coarse sea salt and cilantro - simple and delicious. RH Taste adventures Pierre 25/F Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, 2825 4001 PIERRE IS HOSTILE terrain to food purists and heaven to those with a taste for adventure. Every course is a mind game, challenging every concept you've ever had about food. Not many restaurants will serve up a sweet amuse-bouche at the start of a meal, still less a rocket salad for dessert. Every dish will give you pause, and you'll be wondering if all this is an elaborate gourmet practical joke or simply the genius of Pierre Gagnaire. For example, there's a dish called Le Rouge (HK$380) that packs in bits of just about anything edible that comes in shades of red: duck foie gras with red pepper jelly, red tuna, red croque-monsieur with belotta, niora paste and chorizo, a cappuccino cup filled with light butternut squash chutney, raspberry jelly and beetroot ice cream. Les langoustines (HK$590) is another brazen experiment in flavours. Elements include the lobster as tartare with apple and nougatine, part of it grilled with flat parsley, leeks and Colman's mustard, and then there's pan-fried terre de sienne, and mousseline with green juice and bean sprouts, and hot and cold jelly made from langoustine consomme and chilli pepper paste. Basically, the purpose of the exercise is to show how one main ingredient can be used to vastly different effects in different recipes. The most controversial combination had to be the hot-and-cold jelly. One member of our dining party was turned off by something in the seasoning that she found hard to pin down, but those of us who enjoyed the dish and the amazing way the flavours surfaced said the whole thing was 'like a well-conducted symphony'. Nothing ends plainly at Pierre. There is another dessert, 9Conduit Street (HK$120), that features sweetened arugula, Galia melon, 'financier' (pastry), Granny Smith and cachaca granite, and 'Chantilly verte'. The effect of spicy rocket breaking through the melon and cream sweetness was extraordinary. You can say what you like about the food, but you can't deny Gagnaire his name and fame. RH Hip Chinese Yun Fu Basement, 43-45 Wyndham Street, Central, 2116 8855 IF THERE IS ONE RESTAURANT that Hong Kong can claim as its pride, it is Yun Fu. For a long time 'hip Chinese restaurant' was an oxymoron, but in recent years, artistic restaurateur Calvin Yeung has opened up places that have completely turned things around. His latest venture is Yun Fu, meaning 'a manor on the clouds' (and a play on the Chinese name of Wyndham Street, which starts with the character 'cloud'). With an entrance resembling an ancient courtyard, a flight of stairs takes you down to the drinking area, where a wide range of cocktails, including recipes made with Chinese liquors, are served against a big projection of '70s and '80s kung fu flicks and funky club music. If you are feeling adventurous you can request a preserved seahorse or lizards (pictured) as garnish. When you are ready for dinner, the staff guide you through the red corridor flanked by Chinese wood-screen doors leading to the private rooms. Goose liver soaked in dark soy sauce (HK$98) was a silky and flavoursome experience while sliced duck fillet wrapped with tofu paper (HK$88) was bursting with the lingering flavours of duck, Chinese mushroom and crisp vegetables. Whole roasted bamboo shoot (HK$138), presented on a halved bamboo bark, changed our interpretation of 'eat your greens'. Locals would love this place for its clever and contemporary play on the concept of Chinese-ness, while visitors will simply be blown away. RH Bigger isn't always better Ingredients 23 Wing Fung Street, Wan Chai, 2544 5133 WHEN INGREDIENTS opened in 2003 it was a 36-seat BYOB venue with a club licence and a nondescript door on Gough Street. Today it is a sprawling 10,000 sqft space in the Star Street area of Wan Chai, covering three floors plus the rooftop. Popular demand drove the expansion. There is a jazz lounge on the ground floor and the first and second floors are the main dining areas. The roof garden is for those who like an after-dinner cognac and a cigar. Ingredients' popular pre-order set menu (HK$550) from the old days is still available, while the a la carte menu is peppered with items with names at least a dozen words long. For appetisers, we sampled the seared sesame coated Japanese maguro tuna stuffed with anchovies and Ligurian olives, horseradish cream and roasted garlic olive sauce, crisp shallots, rocket and salted silver fish salad with mustard vinaigrette (HK$210) - that's one dish - and pate de foie gras with toast (HK$150). The fish was fresh, but for a dish with so many condiments and side items the overall flavour wasn't as multi-layered as we had expected. For mains, we had braised oxtail with fennel and root vegetables, preserved lemon polenta, wilted arugula, red wine deglazed enshallots, pickled papaya and fennel sauce (HK$320); and pan-seared miso marinated beef loin, sliced, served with coconut infused daikon, deep-fried leek and triple mushroom reduction (HK$380). Both had tender meat and were nicely done, but again did not pack the expected 'wow factor'. The restaurant's huge expansion and revised prices might have led us to expect too much, but those are the expectations any diner would bring to restaurants of that size and in such a location. And, yes, we did miss the personal touch. RH Wonderful whimsy Frog Face Fish 43-45 Wyndham Street, Central, 2869 8535 BEFORE YOU GET any wild ideas about this restaurant based on its curious name, let us tell you straight off that the moniker is apparently inspired by the nicknames of the owner's three children. Consistent with that concept is the whimsical feel of the place. The fish-bone logo is everywhere - etched on wineglasses, napkin holders, the backs of chairs and in the form of a gigantic ceiling decoration. Otherwise, the ambience is sophisticated - dark-wood floor, crisp white linen, a fish-scale pattern on the wall and a full-length window view of Wyndham Street and the sleek Centrium building. Within a month of opening, the restaurant's regular patrons had staked out their favourite tables. On weekends the place is packed. The folks here know their fish, at least in most cases. The Pacifica oysters (six pieces a serving at HK$145) came with cured salmon and rocket leaves; the mollusc and fish were divinely matched, and the vegetable completed the creaminess with a spicy note. The pan-roasted sea bass excelled on a bed of braised oxtail, white-bean puree, confit garlic and shallots and port red wine butter sauce (HK$215), while the crispy skinned salmon (with slow-roasted fennel puree, crab mayonnaise and asparagus, HK$205) was succulent, sweet and fresh. RH Making headlines The Press Room 108 Hollywood Road, Central, 2525 3444 JUDGING BY THE CROWD inside, The Press Room is a clear winner. On the night we visited we saw at least three rounds of guests sitting at certain tables. The clientele included Henderson Land heir Martin Lee Ka-shing and his wife Cathy Tsui Chi-kei. But this is not a HK$2,000-per-head restaurant. Nor is it an uptight space where diners whisper and try to avoid clinking their cutlery. Quite the contrary, it is a delightfully loud, American-style eatery. It boasts a high ceiling, candles, a no-nonsense menu and no table linen. You can share a seafood platter (Le Grand, with oysters, mussels, prawns, crayfish, crab, ceviche, HK$340; or Le Deluxe with the addition of cherrystone clams and caviar with blini, HK$580; a half or whole lobster can be added for HK$100 or HK$180), then move on to steak with pomme frites (HK$235). The five-onion soup gratinee (HK$48) was layered and sweet, and with a generous helping of melted cheese could have sufficed as a meal in its own right. The blue crab bisque (HK$55) was the essence of oceanic heaven. The lobster risotto (HK$118) was listed as a starter, but the portion was big enough for a main course. Large slices of foie gras mousse (sel gris, peppercorn, pain perdu, port wine-shallot jam, HK$110), rich, velvety and buttery, were also good for sharing. And the steak! The prime steak frites (HK$235) was so tender the knife just slide through the meat. The dish came with creamed spinach and pomme frites and a gravy bowl of bearnaise (the sauce was redundant because the meat was well seasoned and flavoured). After the amply portioned mains, we were far too full to try the cheeses, the artisan ice cream or any of the many desserts. RH SEAFOOD WITH A VIEW Pearl on the Peak Shop 2 Level 1, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Road, 2849 5123 HONG KONG BOASTS many distinguished Australian chefs who have helped develop Continental, French, Greek and even Thai restaurants here. One of the latest names on the block is Geoff Lindsay, the man behind Melbourne's Pearl Restaurant and Bar. The Age Good Food Guide named him Chef of the Year 2005. This restaurant is his latest pearl, and it seems to have all the right trimmings: a top chef and a Peak location with a 270-degree view of the city. Our arrival was rather blustery, coming in from the mall through a glass door, a windy semi-balcony and a black door that looked like it would take us to the kitchen. Instead, we entered the high-ceilinged, curvilinear space that is Pearl on the Peak (you can also enter from the Peak tram station). The big window offers the quintessential Hong Kong view. The minimalist furniture suggests a hotel lounge and the big sofas are very comfy. For appetisers, we had chickpea soup with za'atar halloumi cheese and radish salad (HK$95), and the signature 'pearl meat' (giant mollusc flash-fried with shiitake, China buds, ginger and soy, HK$180). The soup was a brothy affair, not the thick mixture we had expected, and the cheese balls were like sweet, fried custard. The pearl meat was tasty and fresh, but aside from a glamorous presentation in a mother-of-pearl shell it seemed too much like a seafood dish from Lamma. Fortunately, the rare poached salmon with a Catalan salt cod salad lifted things up a little, with its tender tenderness and deliciously layered flavour. Perhaps we pitched our expectations rather high, but we felt that the best of Melbourne was yet to come. RH Out of this world Inagiku 8 Finance Street, Central, 2805 0600 THE SECOND HONG KONG OUTLET of century-old Japanese tempura specialist Inagiku has a great view, a splendid interior and an expanded menu, with many items that are not available at the sister Inagiku in Kowloon. The most notable addition is the kaiseki menu (HK$750-HK$2,000 per person), which features the freshest of seasonal specialities in various courses ranging from sashimi and soups to teppanyaki and tempura. This menu has all the best that Inagiku offers. The Japanese chef is so particular that he installed a filtration system to clean the water used to wash the rice, claiming that Hong Kong tap water discoloured the precious rice grains he imports from Osaka. This is a restaurant for discerning palates. A simple bowl of steamed rice served with assorted pickles (HK$60, served with meso soup) shows the loving attention to detail. This is not a place where you dip all your sashimi in soy sauce; many types of fish, such as snapper and sayori (halfbeak), which are included in set menus when in season, are taken with a mild vinegar dip, accentuating the sweetness of the fish. The teppanyaki grill goes beyond beef and includes delicious seasonal fish. Whatever menu you choose, make sure you try the supreme golden fries, prepared with special Nagano white sesame oil. The best way to enjoy the tempura (HK$180 - HK$280 for assorted, plus seasonal specials) is with a sprinkling of lemon juice and sea salt (plain or green tea-infused). The dish also comes with a tempura sauce. RH