There are 207 mentions of wine in the Bible and most historians regard ancient Israel as the cradle of vineyards. But it is only in the past three decades that Israel's reputation has swung from it being a producer of simple, kosher wines to somewhere worthy of being judged by international standards. In 2004, British wine writer Tom Stevenson listed three Israeli cabernet sauvignons among his '100 most exciting wine finds' and compatriot Oz Clarke has declared Israel 'a rising star of the wine world'. Israeli winemakers have been studying in California, Australia and France, conveying a wealth of Old and New World knowledge back home, and taking wines made mostly from noble grapes - the eight main varieties - to new levels. (Israel's own grapes are suitable only for bulk production.) Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay are particularly favoured, with syrah a more recent pretender to the throne. The Yarden syrah 2002 from Golan Heights Winery has great finesse with good colour concentration, an intense plum-prune nose and a liquorice finish. It is 14.5 per cent alcohol but is so well balanced you don't notice its strength. It's regarded as a top wine from a top winery. Domaine du Castel's 'C' Blanc du Castel 2001 (Cellarmasters has the 2000 vintage for HK$558, tel: 2791 6332) also bears out the claims that classic varietals, in this case chardonnay, have a distinct character in Israel. The country has 25 large commercial wineries, almost exclusively producing kosher wines. This means the producers abide by regulations requiring them to, for example, leave the land fallow every seven years and give 10 per cent of production as an offering to God or charity. There are also more than 150 boutique wineries, reflecting burgeoning domestic interest in making good-quality wine while also trying to adhere to religious rules. Golan Heights (comprising seven wineries, including Upper Galilee), Domaine du Castel, Flam, Margalit and Yatir are widely regarded as the best. The Golan Heights Winery was founded after the region was annexed by Israel from Syria. This area has emerged as probably the most suitable for grape growing, with its sun-soaked slopes and relatively cool nights. It has been referred to as an 'agricultural paradise'. In addition to introducing international practices such as computer-controlled fermentation, the use of American and French oak and replacing concrete tanks with those of stainless steel, Israel has brought much to viticulture. A drip system of irrigation and fertilisation originates from the country and some of its winemakers are experts in rootstock selection. In another claim to excellence, the country can credit the founding of its modern wine industry (1882) to Baron Edmond de Rothschild - from the family that owns Chateau Lafite. Quite a pedigree. And for the future. Can Israel continue to produce a high percentage of kosher wines and be successful in a global wine market? For boutique wineries, religious regulations must make that seem an almost impossible goal. annabel.jackson@gmail.com