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Off with the birds

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If you didn't know that Lomandra longifolia is commonly known as the spiny-headed mat-rush you'd soon become an expert on a trip to Australia's Montague Island. Because there's a catch to visiting this nature reserve five hours south of Sydney, off the coast of Narooma: the only way to stay here is on a Conservation Volunteers tour, where participants spend part of the time helping with conservation activities under the guidance of a National Park ranger.

The knowledge that we're helping to re-vegetate the island for the resident fairy penguins inspires our eight-strong volunteer group to blitz the re-potting of 1,100 seedlings in 21/2 hours.

Our wildlife-spotting begins on the decks of the Narooma Charters vessel that takes us to the island. We see a giant petrel, hosts of shearwaters (muttonbirds), dolphins, migrating humpback whales and, at the northern end of the island, a huge colony of Australian fur seals. Hundreds of the creatures are 'fin surfing', waving their fins in the air to reduce their body temperature.

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After docking, we walk up the hill to the lighthouse, dodging the flocks of gulls screeching as they strut along the path with beaks raised, or rise into the air, in the most raucous defence of their nests.

At the lighthouse we're welcomed by Mark Westwood, our guide from the Department of Environment and Conservation, who helped develop the over- night stay venture, part of the Conservation Volunteers of Australia programme. These tours won the Ecotourism category of the NSW Tourism Awards last year.

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But signing up for conservation work doesn't mean we have to rough it. What was once the head lighthouse-keeper's cottage has been refurbished into quality accommodation while retaining its old-world ambience.

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