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G/F 45-55 Wyndham Street, Central

Tel: 2869 8535

Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm (last orders)

Cuisine:  Modern western seafood.

Ambience: The atmosphere  is busy, brash and loud - appropriately enough  for an area  that fills with crowds of post-work drinkers  blocking the footpath  outside nearby bars. Expect to wait, even if you arrive with a booking.

Price: About HK$500 per person, excluding wine and service charge.

Pros: The seafood is fresh and the oysters are to die for.

Cons:  The service is friendly,   but disorganised and not particularly knowledgable - three waiters weren't sure what a tapenade  was, for instance.  It took two requests to get bread and a waiter tried to take  away a plate of  the delicious scallop ravioli (HK$105) before it was finished. The rush to force more drinks  on you the moment  you've drained  one is common in Hong Kong bars, but you shouldn't get it at an  upmarket place like this. Seafood  (such as the chargrilled tuna, HK$195) can be let down by overcooking. The mannequin with a diving suit out the front is  tacky  bordering on bizarre.

Recommended dishes: The scallop ravioli  was excellent. The oysters with cured salmon and rocket (market price, above) were stellar. Creamy, fresh and inspiring, they  must have been sourced from some pure ocean hideaway. Oven-roasted black pepper prawns (HK$275) were flavourful with a crisp bite, but   an oily risotto  did them no favours.

What else? Frog Face Fish is a sister restaurant to Zest,  a few doors away.



Frog Face Fish