Jacques Helleu has designed a special edition to mark 20 years of the house's Premiere. He tells why it ranks in world-class prestige
Chanel celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Premiere this year. The watch was the first created by Jacques Helleu and he has since gone on to create the J12 series. To celebrate, he has designed a limited edition. Two years ago the J12 launched a tourbillon, followed last year by a J12 Haute Joaillerie model set with 605 baguette-cut diamonds. This year, Helleu has created a one-off, ruby-studded J12 tourbillon.
What difficulties did you encounter when designing the new Premiere? In 1987, the decision was made to create a third universe after perfumes, cosmetics and fashion at Chanel. It was perfectly natural for us to focus on watches and fine jewellery [which is] part of the luxury and prestige world that was missing to enable women to fulfil all their desires with Chanel. This world was closely linked to Mademoiselle [Coco] Chanel's personal history because she had a true passion for jewels and had launched her own collection called Bijoux de Diamants in 1932. The most important thing is to be faithful to the Chanel universe, its history but also its modernism and its contemporary symbols. The difficulty for this year was to recreate a new watch as a jewel, very feminine and exclusive, celebrating this 20th anniversary.
Describe the new Premiere watch. Both smaller and more precious, this watch is the fruit of the subtle alchemy between the original model - with its dial shape representing Place Vendome and the perfume bottle stopper of the No 5 - and the Mademoiselle watch, from where the Premiere borrows its famous pearls bracelet.
Does it get easier or more difficult to design new J12 models? The idea is to create watches that will last for a long time. Not speaking in terms of lines but of models that will leave their mark on watch history by their strength and creativity.
What do you most love about the J12 model shown at BaselWorld? As I have a two-fold interest - the graphic and the mechanical - I created in 2005 a J12 tourbillon. This year we will present a never-before-seen J12 model that combines the perfection of fine watchmaking and fine jewellery. Here the tourbillon unveils all its charm with 586 baguette-cut rubies embracing the bezel, the case and bracelet. The effect is breathtaking: white gold, black ceramic and rubies shimmer and glisten on one of the most prestigious watchmaking complications without precedent. A single piece has been produced and is one of the most outstanding models on show at BaselWorld 2007.