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Refining the art of going ultra-thin

Mary Luk

The brand that made it into the Guinness Book of Records for 'world's thinnest' is putting in extra hours to slim down further

As watches gain in sophistication, they tend to gain in size: the case diameter of some timepieces has expanded to as much as 48mm, and cases have become much thicker.

However, as much as people appreciate the craftsmanship and sophistication of a timepiece with several complications, most do not want to wear a big, heavy watch 12 hours a day. Recognising this, Piaget has put in some extra hours to concentrate on its ultra-thin mechanical movements.

'In a time when watch manufacturers are tending to offer almost exclusively large models, we have opted to pursue the path of finesse and elegance,' said Philippe Leopold-Metzger, Piaget's chief executive.

Ultra-thin watches can challenge the skills of the nimblest of technicians. 'Their skills are severely tested when they work on complicated movements,' Mr Leopold-Metzger said. 'So far, Piaget has produced record-thin movements - 5.65mm for a chronograph and 3.5mm for a tourbillon.'

The brand will continue to explore ways to refine its techniques. Half a century ago, Piaget developed ultra-thin mechanisms that are still benchmarks in the field: the 9P manual-winding calibre of 1957 was followed in 1960 by the self-winding 12P movement which, at just 2.3mm thick, put Piaget in (at that time) The Guinness Book of Records as the creator of 'the world's thinnest self-winding movement'.

Piaget's recent developments include the 430P, 450P and 438P movements, a mere 2.1mm thick, and the new line of 600P (tourbillon regulator) movements. In the demanding world of the ultra-thin, technicians a must push the limits of resistance in components while ensuring fine adjustments.

The Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget prides itself on putting technical expertise at the service of creativity. The brand has been quick to maximise on the slenderness of its movements by producing men's watches notable for their elegance.

Piaget returns to its roots with the tourbillon regulator in its new pocket watch in the contemporary, square-shape Altiplano collection. (This complication, from two centuries ago, was designed primarily to compensate for the effects of gravity on pocket watches.)

The 40mm-sided white gold case houses the Piaget mechanical hand-wound Calibre 600P, the world's thinnest tourbillon movement at just 3.5mm thick. The carriage of the tourbillon - visible through a dial opening at 9 o'clock - comprises 42 parts and weighs a mere 0.2 grams. Like all vintage Piaget models, the caseback is engraved with the brand's coat of arms. The watch comes with a white gold chain and a leather cordlet.

Piaget is re-issuing the legendary ultra-thin Calibre 9P movement in a limited edition - 25 pieces in white gold and 25 in pink gold. The movement is used in 50 pocket watches in the Altiplano collection. The silver-coloured dial will have slender hour markers. These pocket watches come with a gold chain, a cordlet, a protective waistcoat fob and a leather base.

The Altiplano Double Jeu is ideal for travellers as it offers dual time zones. With a new look and powered by new movements, it comprises two superimposed pink gold cases, each housing a mechanical hand-wound movement. The Polo Chronograph houses the new Calibre 800P, the first mechanical chronograph movement entirely produced by Piaget. It also has flyback functions.

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