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Coober Pedy

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Australia's opal-mining capital provides the opportunity to unearth a fortune and chill out underground.

1. Get down and dirty Ever since 14-year-old Willie Hutchison stumbled upon opal in Coober Pedy in 1915, prospectors from around the world have flocked to this South Australian Outback settlement in search of their fortune. These days, with the opal fields dotted with mine shafts, wandering around on your own can be dangerous. The 'Down n' Dirty Tour' gives visitors the opportunity to dig up gemstones under the tutelage of an experienced opal miner. The tour starts at the Desert Cave Hotel's underground display area (bottom centre) with an informative talk followed by a visit to an area known as the 'jeweller's shop', where noodling (or fossicking) for opals in the dirt provides the chance to unearth a souvenir or two. Occasionally, someone hits the jackpot: according to our guide, one lucky visitor a few years ago got the shock of his life when he unearthed an opal worth A$50,000 (HK$321,000).

2. Underground homes One of the quirky things about Coober Pedy is that more than 60 per cent of the population live underground in 'dug-outs'. In summer, when outside temperatures can reach a sizzling 50 degrees Celsius, these homes maintain a cool 22 to 26 degrees. Faye's Underground Home (bottom left; entry A$4) is a 30-year-old dug-out excavated by one of the first female opal miners, Faye Naylor, along with two others, all using picks and shovels. Five rooms, a wine cellar and a swimming pool have been added to Naylor's home. These days, homes are dug using tunnelling machines and are equipped with plumbing, electrical wiring and cement floors. Some are stylishly furnished with polished timber floorboards, Italian tiles, Afghan rugs, contemporary decor and soft Italian leather sofas.

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3. Sleep underground The town has a range of subterranean accommodation, from backpacker dormitories and underground campsites to bed and breakfast dug-outs. At the top of the range is the Desert Cave Hotel (www.desertcave.com.au), which offers accommodation, a shopping arcade, a cafe and bar, a fine-dining restaurant and displays depicting Coober Pedy's mining history.
4. Outback postman Join the local postman on the one-day mail run from Coober Pedy to the remote Outback towns of Oodnadatta and William Creek. Travelling by four-wheel-drive truck, you'll follow unsealed roads past dusty red sand-dunes and across a dry 120-million-year-old inland seabed. You'll deliver the mail to farmers on isolated cattle stations, including the world's largest, Anna Creek Station. The postman has lots of entertaining stories about life in the Outback. See www.mailruntour.com; A$165 a person.
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5. Stargazing Twenty kilometres from the lights of Coober Pedy, gaze in awe at the constellations and planets moving across the night-time canvas. The Southern Cross, the Big Dipper and Orion glitter like jewels against the unpolluted sky.

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