The muscle of the abalone is so strong that divers attempting to harvest the univalve in the wild have to sneak up on it. If an abalone senses danger, it clamps down so hard it is almost impossible to prise from the rock (sometimes a diver accidentally removes only the shell, leaving the muscle behind to perish).
What is it? An edible gastropod (one-shelled mollusc) that clings to rocks in the ocean. The shell - hard and rough on the outside, smooth and iridescent within - helps to protect the abalone from predators.
How is it available? Fresh, dried, frozen or tinned. When it's small (about 4cm), fresh abalone is usually served whole. Bigger abalone are much tougher so they're usually thinly sliced then pounded to tenderise them before cooking. Canned abalone (sold whole or in slices) can be eaten without any cooking - usually sliced and drizzled with oyster or soy sauce. Whole canned specimens can be braised for several hours to add flavour. Dried abalone is a luxury product; one of the factors in pricing is the size (bigger is better). Dried abalone requires skill, top-quality ingredients and many days to prepare it well, hence its high price at restaurants.
What else? The interior of the abalone shell is one of the sources of mother of pearl.
How to use: the classic Cantonese preparation of dried abalone involves soaking it in water, simmering it in a flavourful broth then braising it in a rich sauce. It's very labour intensive.
Fresh abalone is easier to cook and small varieties are best simply steamed. Place them shell down on a flat dish, top with a teaspoonful of soaked fermented black beans that have been mashed with a little rice wine, then add a drizzle of soy sauce and steam. When they're cooked, sprinkle with minced spring onions and serve.