1/F Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington Street, Central Tel: 2971 0180 Open: noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Cuisine: Japanese. Ambience: Jazz and Japanese food make agreeable partners at Sushi Kuu, although the music can interfere with conversation. An informal, warm, wooden setting accommodates tables spaced generously apart. Booths lining one side of the 88-seat restaurant allow you to observe the action on Wellington Street below and at the sociable sushi bar. A quiet drinks area off the main dining space adds to the relaxed yet convivial atmosphere. Price: About HK$400 a head, not including drinks, dessert or the 10 per cent service charge. Pros: The tray of delicate glass cups presented with our bottle of daiginjo sake (HK$668 for 720ml) had us dithering over which to pick. Service was friendly, although a request for the music to be turned down was met with the response that the head chef (Satoru Mukogawa, formerly of Nishimura and Kiku restaurants) liked it loud. Presentation was simple but stylish. Cons: Although tasty, the homemade tofu with uni (sea urchin roe, HK$60) was a tad meagre: two bites and it was gone. In contrast, the futomaki sushi (HK$110) looked surprisingly generous, although closer inspection revealed that the eel, protruding from either end, did not extend all the way through the roll. Recommended dishes: The deep-fried swordfish skewers (HK$70 for two sticks, above) had my guest gushing: 'This is how fish in fish and chips should be done.' (Translation: the batter wasn't too heavy or oily and the fish was light and scrumptious.) Although it took a while to arrive, the hamachi (yellowtail) and radish boiled in sake and soy sauce (HK$80) was worth the wait. With a homecooked look and flavour (enhanced by crunchy burdock), it was comfort food that encouraged much lip-smacking. Poles apart in aesthetics and belly-filling capacity was the Kuu style sashimi (HK$330). It included toro (fatty tuna belly), snapper, salmon, crab and shrimp presented in separate bowls on a long, beautiful dish, and each offering surprised the palate with different but subtle tastes. What else? Two private rooms (big enough for six and eight people) can be joined to provide space for 16. If you can't decide what to order, ask about the daily soup (from HK$50) and the day's boiled or grilled fish (from HK$50 and HK$80).