The searing summer heat heralds the arrival of yellow oil crabs, whose bodies are saturated with rich roe. The simplest way to appreciate the delicacy is to steam or bake the crustaceans in rock salt. The crabs are also cooked with congee or made into Shanghainese soup dumplings. The best wine pairings need plenty of richness and fruit purity. These three wines complement the crabs' intense succulence.
Champagne Ruinart Blanc de Blanc NV, Reims, France
The blanc de blancs champagne style is made solely of chardonnay grapes and most come with a deluxe price tag. This Ruinart is one of the most enjoyable yet affordable wines in this style. It has a pale golden tint with plenty of slow-rising bubbles. The aromas are fine, well-integrated and, most importantly, fresh enough to match the taste of the equally fresh crabs. The Ruinart tastes outstandingly fine and the crisp chardonnay freshness gives the crabs a nice platform to extend. Most champagne professionals insist that champagne should be drunk at a precise eight degrees Celsius, but in the case of this Ruinart and crab combination, serve the wine just cold to the touch, otherwise it will be too great a contrast with the hot crab.
Available for HK$595 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888)
Corton Charlemagne Louis Latour 2003, Burgundy, France
This grand cru white Burgundy is one of the world's richest fruity chardonnays, with many complex flavours that blend seamlessly. It's the perfect match for yellow oil crab soup dumplings. The soup adds succulent dimensions to the already rich wine. The crab's sweetness reverses some of the oak in the wine while enhancing the rich, complex fruit.