Hebe One O One

112 Pak Sha Wan, Hebe Haven, Sai Kung

Tel: 2335 5515

Open: Monday-Friday 11.30am-10.30pm, Saturday and Sunday 8am-10.30pm. Bar open until midnight.

Cuisine: International.

Ambience: It occupies three levels of an old village house, with basic Mediterranean decor. Dining on the roof offers privacy and lovely views of the bay.

Price: About HK$275 per person without drinks.

Pros: The service was attentive and friendly without being intrusive. The menu caters for a variety of appetites (including vegetarian) and budgets. The wine list is an intelligent mixture of old and new world wines.

Cons: The appetiser of salmon and prawn timbale (HK$78, above) was a bit heavy on the dill mayonnaise, drowning the delicate flavours of the seafood. The beat of the lounge house music grated after a while.

Recommended dishes: The Greek salad with garlic bread (HK$65) wasn't traditional, but the mixed leaf salad had a generous amount of feta cheese, cucumber and olives. Despite being tempted by the tenderloin of beef with stilton cheese sauce (HK$268) and the fillet of lamb with chestnut puree (HK$198), my guest ordered the bacon-wrapped chicken with herb mashed potatoes served with carrots and zucchini and a fennel cream sauce (HK$118). The chicken was succulent and the Parma ham added a nice smoky flavour. The seared rainbow trout (HK$118) was piled high on a tower of herb mash, accompanied by an almond and caper beurre noisette (brown butter sauce) and zucchini. The fish was cooked to perfection and the almonds in the sauce added a crispy contrast to the piquancy of the capers. For dessert, the chocolate cappuccino cup (HK$65) was a divinely rich mousse, and the hot apple and blueberry crumble (HK$68) was full of spiced stewed fruit with a deliciously crispy crumble, served with fresh pouring cream.

What else? There's no 10 per cent service charge. The menu changes every two to three weeks, with all-day breakfast at weekends and on public holidays. The restaurant caters for private parties and has a bar snack menu and a cocktail list.