China never fails to leave an impression on foreign visitors; they either love it or consider leaving before their itinerary is finished. A trip to two of Jiangxi province's most popular destinations - the bustling city of Nanchang and the picturesque peaks of Lushan - provides two opportunities to find out if you're in the former or latter category.
Jiangxi serves as a primer on the history of China's Communist Party. The first glimpse of the province usually comes while flying into Nanchang, seat of the provincial government and the showpiece metropolis for all communist compatriots. It was here, after all, the party began. Communist militias attacked Chiang Kai-shek's Nationalist troops in the Nanchang Uprising of August 1, 1927, the first battle of the Chinese civil war. By noon the city was theirs, if only for a while. Twelve years later the two armies, this time side by side, would be routed by the Japanese in the Battle of Nanchang.
Because of its history, Nanchang is today a kind of Mecca to which all serious party cadres must make a pilgrimage. Once here, they stand solemnly at the memorials marking the momentous events of the past and have their pictures taken at the historic Tengwang Pavilion, overlooking the Gan River. One of the 'great towers' of China, it was originally erected in AD653 but has been destroyed and rebuilt many times.
From its ninth storey and on a clear day (so guides claim; there are precious few clear days any more) you can see across the river to Bayi Square, which, at 78,000 square metres, is the second largest public square in China, after Tiananmen. It takes its name from the date of the Nanchang Uprising (ba = eight; yi = one) and is a marvel of one-party town planning.
Years ago, locals too poor to afford air-conditioners would spend hot summer nights camped at the square to catch the breeze that blows through the 'canyon' formed by huge government buildings. Today they're more likely to be found in karaoke lounges at the upmarket hotels nearby. Less well-heeled locals still choose to cool off at the musical water fountain - the largest in Asia - that lies between the square and the banks of the Gan. At 8pm on summer nights, huge crowds are entertained by water cannon blasting in time to March of the Volunteers and How Great is our China.
Later they might stroll down to the Star of Nanchang, a 160-metre-high Ferris wheel that, when illuminated, is the only star that can be seen in the night sky. Until Singapore's wheel is finished, locals can boast the structure is the tallest Ferris wheel in the world (superlatives are an important source of pride). Its 60 air-conditioned gondolas each carry up to eight passengers, who pay 50 yuan a head for a 30-minute spin.