Traditionally, pearls were synonymous with timeless elegance, maturity and sophistication, but in recent years we have seen designers redefining the way they are designed and set, and how they are worn. A few years ago Alber Elbaz at Lanvin updated his designs by wrapping faux pearls in tulle and velvet, and since then they have become fashion accessories that go hand in hand with the latest trends without losing their unique style. 'Pearls are now associated with fashion and lifestyle but have maintained their elegance and unique identity,' says Queedy Chan from Mikimoto. The brand, which is known for creating the cultured pearl, has just launched a new collection with Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto that takes pearl design to a new abstract level. Called Stormy Weather, the collection (priced from US$1,550 to US$60,000) targets younger and trendier customers and features 29 innovative pieces that evoke rough weather and celestial shapes. A necklace with South Sea pearls surrounded by a white gold disc reminds us of the phases of the moon (US$3,500). Other designers working to make the material more modern are the French sisters behind local label Calamansi Bijoux Creations. Targeted at younger (age 25 upwards) and hipper crowds, the label favours freshwater pearls over natural pearls for their more playful feel. It mixes freshwater pearls with semi-precious stones to create unusual pieces that can be dressed up or down. Unlike traditional styles that use pearls of uniform size, the label prefers to mix different varieties for an unusual look. For example, its signature chandelier earrings (HK$1,800) comprise freshwater pearl rice grains, as does its Malansi necklace (HK$2,900). For higher end, check out Chanel's Les Perles de Chanel collection or Chaumet's Frisson pearl set that features black pearl drops accentuated with diamonds and pink sapphires. New to Hong Kong is Paspaley, a specialist in South Sea pearls based in Australia. Its Dolce collection features an oval-shaped diamond-encrusted pendant (HK$219,000) and earrings (HK$172,000). Marguerite Sam, general merchandise manager of jewellery from Lane Crawford, says customers should look for different shapes. Length, size and colour can also affect how old the design will look. 'Fashion brings influence in terms of colour matching. Pearls are must-haves, just like diamonds, and can match wardrobes from casual to bridal,' says Sam. She recommends less traditional shades such as gold, champagne, chocolate, black, grey, blue and pink. 'Wear them casually, long and free.' Shopping list Calamansi Bijoux at Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, Central, tel: 3695 3388 Chanel, Prince's Building, Central, tel: 2869 4898 Lane Crawford, Pacific Place, Admiralty, tel: 2118 3668 Mikimoto, Shop 2056, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2234 7189 Paspaley, G03, the Galleria, Central, tel: 2525 5959 Chaumet, St George's Building, 2 Ice House St, Central; tel: 2536 9338
