The Bahamian capital had faded like an ageing dowager. But with high-end hotel developments and a revival of its rich culture, the grand old lady is blossoming again.
1. Music Though the muzak of Nassau's package-deal hotel lobbies runs from Harry Belafonte to cover versions of Bob Marley, there is a lively and authentic local music scene. Musicians such as Ira Storr and the Spank Band keep the traditional sound of 'rake and scrape' music alive
on Friday nights at TopShotters Bar (Summerwinds Plaza, Harold Road, tel: 242 356 7200). Rake and scrape, Bahamian soul music, is an irresistibly danceable genre that includes the rhythms of goatskin drums, carpenters' handsaws and maracas. Junkanoo, Bahamian festival music, is played by colourfully costumed drum ensembles such as Chippie and the Boys, a raucous and cheerful band that can be heard in the afternoons on Prince George Wharf at the indoor market, Festival Place.
3. Cable Beach (left) After a glorious run in the 1980s, Nassau's premier strip of hotels along the 6.5km sands of Cable Beach became a bit shabby, but a stunning new collection of hotels is on the way. The development includes a Caesars Resort, a W and a St Regis. For the most fun and a chance to meet local residents, walk about 1km straight down the sand to the public beach at Goodman Bay, where local children play cricket, families have cookouts and the sea is crystal clear.
4. Crafts Bahamian women have historically plaited and woven straw, first for strictly utilitarian purposes and later for a booming tourist market. To see some of the straw crafts (below right) and other handmade local arts, visit Nassau's Straw Market, on Bay Street. Like most 21st-century tourist destinations, there are a lot of handbag knock-offs and bits of tacky flotsam and jetsam. But there are also some unique pieces made by real artisans. In booth 516, Harry Clark carves massive chunks of mahogany into handsome Caribbean-themed works by hand. Stall 280 is operated by Sylvia McKenzie, who for 30 years has followed in her grandfather's footsteps and woven straw and raffia into practical baskets. An aisle away, at stall 190, Brenda Gibson and Rose Beneby sell colourful handmade toys cleverly cobbled together out of recycled drink cans.