'Tis the season for a multitude of trends - vivid hues, florals galore, star-studded prints, diaphenous fabrics and the glorious and continued revival of the dress. From the catwalks to the parties and back again, the spring-summer collections in New York, London, Paris and Milan never fail to impress.
Thursday, September 6 New York Fashion Week starts two days earlier than usual to accommodate the Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashanah. It's a full house at Badgley Mischka, where the duo unleash a wave of stylish swimsuits alongside a parade of sensual gowns. With a taste of 1920s French Riviera, the clothes are liquid and soft, contrasted with sharp tailoring and splashes of bold colour. A divine black tulle dress closes the show, as actress Teri Hatcher claps wildly.
Geometric shapes and luxurious fabrics are Yeohlee's forte. Her spring collection, inspired by the American southwest, features her signature bold cuts and a colour scheme that represents different times of the day, from dawn to dusk. Oversized poncho-like outerwear gleams in silver and asymmetry is a successful recurring theme.
Friday, September 7 First up, for a 9am kick-off to today's shows, is Ports 1961's Safiri collection. Although Africa is a common summer motif, these offerings are fresh and original. A palette borrowed from the earth and sky creates sombre, gentle looks while traditional fabrics such as mud cloth and kanga, together with horsehair trim and burlap accessories, make an ethnic statement. Shape and form are similarly traditional and hemlines are raised to create easy asymmetric angles.
Next, Vera Wang's collection combines Roman elements with updated soft-edge silhouettes. Prints include dappled clouds, heavy-handed brushstrokes and etched lines that pay tribute to the murals of Pompeii. Highlights include loose-gauge knits that flutter with sheer organza inserts and the unusually youthful, dropped-crotch cargo shorts in vibrant royal purple.
Later, Max Azria's scantily clad girls reflect his focus on the bedroom, appearing in corseted satin dresses with chiffon ra-ra miniskirts, silky pyjama suits and softly belted robe-coats. Highlights come in the form of 20s-style flapper dresses with colour-blocked bodices and a linen trenchcoat with multiple, petal-like revers.
J. Mendel calls his show 'a study in sophisticated contrasts', which is evident in his sensual rainbow of deep purple, acid orange and hot-pink chiffon.