Traditional cheese fondue is fairly basic: melted cheese mixed with white wine and/or a splash of kirsch. Distilled from fermented cherries, kirsch gives flavour headiness and lightness to the heavy dish. The wine should be quite simple. Bread and perhaps raw vegetables are used to dip. These have relatively clear flavours so the wine needs to handle the cheese texture first, then the intense richness. Wines that can add flavours will be more pleasing and enjoyable. A full-flavoured wine is preferred over a full-bodied one.
Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2004, Martinborough, New Zealand
The Martinborough region in the southern tip of New Zealand's North Island has been heaven for pinot noir and pinot noir lovers. It's debatable whether the region's pinot noir fame is strictly geographical or due to the small pool of extremely talented winemakers specialising in the grape variety. New Zealand pinot comes from three main regions and falls into three styles. The Martinborough is by far the most robust and powerful, Marlborough pinot noir is soft, luscious and extremely fruity, and central Otago in the southernmost region of New Zealand has more than a hint of Burgundy taste. This Ata Rangi is perfect for cheese fondue. It's rich and layered and has silky but assertive tannin that can cleanse the palate. The kirsch in this combination brings the red fruit pinot note closer to the savoury cheese.
Available for HK$430 from Altaya (tel: 2523 1945)
Carruades de Lafite 2001, Pauillac, Bordeaux
There have been some superlative Bordeaux vintages recently and the price is in the same stratospheric heights as their glowing reviews and reputation. The 2001 wasn't one of the greats, but it's elegant and delicious enough for those without deep pockets. The Lafite style is linear and highly focused. Incidentally, Chateau Lafite is the most sought-after first growth in China, which gives some clues to Chinese wine preference. This Carruades is a perfect wine with cheese fondue because it redirects the fondue roundness while adding a substantially wide range of fruit flavours.