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SCMP Reporter

Always on the lookout for exciting and different culinary trends, chef Ricky Cheung Kam-cheung explains why he is willing to learn and experiment to satisfy the ever-changing palates of Hong Kong diners
Food trends, like fashion, change quickly, and chefs are always looking to find and develop delicious new styles.  Ex-Scala chef Ricky Cheung Kam-cheung has opened both of his restaurants away from popular districts - one in Chai Wan's industrial district and the other in an old residential area of Wan Chai. But he insists he is no risk-taker - just open-minded and keen to learn.
'There are too many restaurants in SoHo. You can't stand out,' he says. 'And I find Hongkongers are picky about food. Food trends change very fast. It's like fashion, you need to be open-minded.'
He explains that such changes are not really about people's tastes.
'People go for a trend, and there's plenty of space for chefs to develop. There's no limit to food trends.'
After trying some French fusion cuisine in his bistro in Chai Wan, Mr Cheung realised a lot of younger people preferred fancy smaller dishes they could share with friends, especially girls who love to get together for casual dining.
This inspired him to make tapas at his Spanish restaurant in Wan Chai. Mr Cheung says Spanish food has  been overlooked.
It gained more attention when a restaurant named El Bulli in Spain, headed by chef Ferran Adria, made molecular gastronomy popular. This involves combining foods with different chemical and molecular compositions.
'You can never guess what it is. They use advanced technology to make the food nothing like what it seems.'
Such cooking, he says, has raised people's awareness of Spanish food and inspired more innovation in traditional cooking.
Although he has been in the business for almost 30 years, Mr Cheung says being scientific is more crucial than having experience.
'Every team member in my kitchen carries an alarm clock with them,' he says, emphasising the importance of timing  and temperature.
Other than being open-minded and willing to learn about food trends, he says it is crucial to make your meals distinctive so people remember you.  'You need your own originality.'
Mr Cheung's signature dishes are poultry and seafood. 'Seafood is so delicate that you have a limited time frame to get it right.'
Poultry and seafood 'are both very difficult to make  taste good. The technical challenges make it enjoyable for me'.
He says that the feeling when he is cooking is like creating a piece of art.
Mr Cheung says his success is not the result of any secret recipes, but rather from shared recipes. Once he comes up with a recipe, he posts it in the kitchen to share with everyone and to ensure they are doing a good job.
'If they do a good job, then I get more time to work on another new recipe.'
Despite appearing on  television and radio shows, his popularity and success do not stop him from continuing to learn, and to generate  more innovative cooking ideas.
'I'm now learning how to use sauce - it makes a big difference to the taste.'
For instance, a simple chicken fillet spiced up with Asian herbs can make a delightful Thai dish. But season it with citrus ponzu, and the result is a refreshing Japanese taste. 'Sauce makes people think of different styles and tastes,' he says.
But despite keeping an open mind, there are occasions when it is crucial not to stray too far from tradition. Fusion cuisine is an example.
'I very much like traditional Japanese cuisine, but I wouldn't consider trying to make fusion out of it.'
For good fusion cuisine, he says, it is vital to stay open-minded, young at heart and always learn from the latest eating trends. To be more specific, the chef must be  immersed in the culture of a region.
'For example, a French chef who has lived in Asia for a long time would know details of herbs and how to use them. At the same time, he has the skills to make French cuisine. When he knows both sides very well, it's easier to succeed.'



Hong Kong Faces