On arrival, journalists and filmmakers are greeted by the sight of bountiful displays of duty-free luxury goods and women draped in the black abaya, the traditional garb of the United Arab Emirates. Festival goers quickly bypass the customs line, and are ushered into idling black BMWs that whisk them down six-lane highways to the plush Madinat Jumeirah Hotel, replete with red carpets and arabesque hallways. Bollywood sirens primp as Arab men float past in white robes, sharing cigarettes and conversation with French directors.

The festival came about in 2002, in the wake of the terrorist attacks on the US, as an instrument to spread goodwill and cultural understanding from east to west. It is also, says festival organiser Mohammed Rouda, 'a way to entertain and challenge the minds of Dubai's young people - and create a bridge of welcome between two cultures who need to open lines of communication'.

This means gala dinners and Hollywood blockbusters, independent Arab documentaries and Sri Lankan dramas. Actor George Clooney arrived for the opening to show his new film, Michael Clayton. Danny Glover and Paulo Coelho, author of The Alchemist, hosted the Cultural Bridge Panel, discussing the importance of cultural openness and understanding. But the greatest exposition of the festival's mission was on screen.

This year's festival featured 140 films from more than 40 countries, but the thematic elements were alarmingly similar. Conflict overshadowed much of the Middle Eastern offerings. Under the Bombs, director Philippe Aractingi's tale of a Dubai child's trip to Lebanon during last year's war with Israel, won the Muhr Award for Excellence in Arab Cinema. This movie, which deals with the spontaneous relationship between a Shiite divorcee from Dubai and a Christian taxi driver, won over audiences with its immediacy and touching intimacy.

Another Muhr winner, the alternately alarming and whimsical Khalass, also takes place in Beirut. The film follows two survivors of the war who resort to violence in their quest to find meaning in a shattered society. Both movies were collaborations between French and Lebanese filmmakers, and stood out in a competitive field.

Masoud Amralla al Ali, the festival's artistic director, was taken aback by the strength of the Arab selections: 'Our jury had difficulty choosing winners because of the superlative quality, both from a story and production value standpoint.'

Asian cinema was also well represented in Dubai. Ning Cai's stark portrayal of life in arid Inner Mongolia, Season of the Horse, was well received for its sincerity. 'We need to preserve our traditional culture, our way of life in Mongolia,' says the director. 'I don't want China to blend into one single, characterless identity.'

Tuya's Marriage, Wang Quan'an's take on the sacrifices of the Mongolian steppe, also won over audiences. Climate change and the plight of the farmer is a theme that will appear again in world cinema.

Veteran Chinese actor Henry O also travelled to Dubai to introduce A Thousand Years of Good Prayers, an examination of immigrant life in the US, and a touching exploration of a father's attempt to connect with his daughter. 'I am a Muslim and I'm thrilled to be here because this is where my ancestors came from,' says the spry former stage actor. 'This festival emphasises tolerance and communication - it's so gratifying to see western filmmakers and Arabians working together to make movies.'

On the final night of the festival, a nervous buzz circulated around the lavish hotel lobbies that decorate this desert metropolis. At the last minute, organisers decided to close the festival with The Kite Runner, based on Afghan author Khaled Hosseini's novel of the same name. The lights dimmed, and after an ad for Dubai Duty Free and a diamond encrusted credit card, the diverse audience settled into their seats.

The tearful epic explored issues of rape and the cost of the Soviet war in Afghanistan, the fearful grip of Islamic extremism and the resulting cultural isolation of Afghan emigres. It was an astonishing film to witness in this part of the world.

Afterwards, the crowd filed onto buses for the closing party - held 60km away in the cold, dark desert. Thousands gathered under the stars, drinking strong cups of red tea or champagne. After digging into whole roasted lamb, the masses settled down to smoke shisha pipes and watch the fireworks.

Later, the dance floor filled with locals, Basque musicians, Indian taxi drivers and one China-based journalist. The crowd roared as Prince squealed over Arabic techno and Indian bhangra. The bridge had been crossed.