Parma

Published: 12:00am, 6 Jan 2008

Famous for its ham and parmesan cheese, this northern Italian city attracts more than just gourmets. Renaissance art, a cathedral and beautiful scenery draw in the crowds too.

1. Pig out

This northern Italian city (main street, below left) is the home of the gourmet staple prosciutto di Parma, which smells as good as it tastes. Large haunches of the rosy ham - still in its curing stages - are suspended from the ceilings of old-fashioned glass-fronted salumerias (Italian grocery stores) and many of the city's top-class restaurants have dedicated carving areas, where staff will slice the rich flesh for your table. Take one of the many guided tasting tours available in the city - or, if you are an aficionado, there's the Festival del Prosciutto di Parma (www.festivaldelprosciuttodiparma.com) in September and, from November to February, the Sua Maesta il Maiale (His Majesty the Pig), a porcine celebration involving more than 30 restaurants.

2. Art

Your tastebuds pleasured, give your eyes a treat at the National Gallery, which is housed on the second floor of the 17th-century Pilotta Palace. Renaissance masters Antonio Allegri da Correggio and Parmigianino are well represented here, as are Fra Angelico and El Greco. Don't miss the chance to see a Leonardo da Vinci without the crowds; make for his little known Head of a Young Girl. Another place to find visual treats is the Stuard Gallery, which is well stocked thanks to the collective zeal of the Duchess of Parma, also known as Marie Louise of Austria. Art from the 14th to 20th centuries is well represented here. Parma - like all other large Italian cities - doubles as an outdoor gallery too, with an abundance of statues and sculptures on display.

3. Football

Parma's Serie A football club has had no little success in European competitions. Catch a game at the Ennio Tardini Stadium, which can hold up to 29,000 spectators. Details of games and prices can be found at www.fcparma.it. And if you're a serious fan of one of Italy's favourite pastimes, stay at the riverside Park Hotel Toscanini: the national team's hotel of choice.

4. Take a breath of fresh air

Alongside its traffic-stopping architecture, Parma's many green spaces are equally remarkable. Ten minutes' walk from Piazza Garibaldi takes you to the Ducal Park royal gardens, lined with towering trees. And if the wide boulevard-style paths and flowering fountains fool you into thinking you are in France, you can be forgiven; the park was extended in the 18th century and recreated in the then fashionable French style. The lake at the far end of the gardens is home to fat goldfish, robins, ducks and swans, and if you're lucky you might even see turtles.

5. Opera

Parma's founders nurtured a rich tradition in opera that is still flourishing. Milan's La Scala may be better known but few opera houses anywhere in the world can compete with the Regio Theatre and the enthusiasm of the cultured locals - standing ovations have been known to last for 17 minutes. Performances scheduled for this year include Porgy and Bess, Cosi Fan Tutte and La Boheme. If you can't get tickets or you just want to take a look at this neoclassical building, tours are available from Tuesday to Sunday, rehearsals permitting. Reservations are recommended - www.teatroregioparma.it for bookings.

6. Castell'Arquato

Parma is surrounded by villages - typically comprising a piazza, a church and a few trattoria - that look as if they haven't changed since medieval times, but for sheer time-stepping rusticity none can beat sleepy Castell'Arquato. Best taken as a day trip (it is 35km west of Parma), the old town is on a rocky outcrop with views of the green hills and groves of the Emilia-Romagna countryside. The 13th-century Visconti Castle is the most admirable of the town's terracotta-tinged monuments, but the Piazza Matteotti and Palazzo del Podesta are enjoyable too.

7. Mountain pursuits Parma's stretch of the Apennines bristles with oak, beech, chestnut woods and climbers flock there to tackle summits such as the 1,799-metre-tall Mount Maggiorasca. There are more than 100 itineraries for the dedicated climber as well as easier treks, and the slopes attract skiers in winter (February is the best month). Schia, Prato Spilla and Lagdei-Lago Santo are the main ski spots, the latter providing a challenging cross-country trail. Lago Santo (also accessible by ski lift for those not keen on downhill action) is the largest natural lake in the region.

8. Holy architecture

Prosperous Parma is dotted with fairytale buildings and its cathedral (below right) is a Romanesque marvel. Look for the copper angel atop the bell tower and the side chapels, which were added after its original construction in the 12th century. Another noticeable feature is the octagonal dome and the red Verona marble staircase inside. Entrance is free and, if you want to attend a service, it's best to avoid the crowds and visit in the early evening on a weekday. Another ecclesiastical building worth seeing is the church of San Giovanni Evangelista, just east of the cathedral, which has a domed fresco of the Vision of Saint John on Patmos by Correggio.

9. Parmesan

Parma's other main culinary contribution is the firm cheese that is grated over pasta worldwide. Sophisticated locals enjoy the regional cheese in a far more sophisticated manner - try sampling slices of it with pears washed down with wine before an evening at the opera or the theatre. If you want to get an idea of its painstaking production, take a tour of a parmesan factory - www.parmigiano-reggiano.it has details. The highest-quality parmesan is said to be worth more, by weight, than gold but tours are often free of charge and there are many homely - and excellent - restaurants in food-obsessed Parma where you can enjoy it without breaking the bank.

10. Speed

Ferrari, Maserati and Lamborghini all have production bases in the Emilia-Romagna region. If you're a sports-car enthusiast, you'll want to check out the Riccardo Paletti racing track. If that doesn't sate your appetite for burning rubber, strap yourself in for a ride at the Parma Karting Club (www.kartdromoparma.it). Be warned: the track is a series of fiendish spirals. If you prefer to take things at a more sedate pace, saddle up at one of the city's many horse-riding schools.

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