Parma
Famous for its ham and parmesan cheese, this northern Italian city attracts more than just gourmets. Renaissance art, a cathedral and beautiful scenery draw in the crowds too.
1. Pig out
2. Art
Your tastebuds pleasured, give your eyes a treat at the National Gallery, which is housed on the second floor of the 17th-century Pilotta Palace. Renaissance masters Antonio Allegri da Correggio and Parmigianino are well represented here, as are Fra Angelico and El Greco. Don't miss the chance to see a Leonardo da Vinci without the crowds; make for his little known Head of a Young Girl. Another place to find visual treats is the Stuard Gallery, which is well stocked thanks to the collective zeal of the Duchess of Parma, also known as Marie Louise of Austria. Art from the 14th to 20th centuries is well represented here. Parma - like all other large Italian cities - doubles as an outdoor gallery too, with an abundance of statues and sculptures on display.
3. Football
4. Take a breath of fresh air
Alongside its traffic-stopping architecture, Parma's many green spaces are equally remarkable. Ten minutes' walk from Piazza Garibaldi takes you to the Ducal Park royal gardens, lined with towering trees. And if the wide boulevard-style paths and flowering fountains fool you into thinking you are in France, you can be forgiven; the park was extended in the 18th century and recreated in the then fashionable French style. The lake at the far end of the gardens is home to fat goldfish, robins, ducks and swans, and if you're lucky you might even see turtles.
5. Opera
6. Castell'Arquato
Parma is surrounded by villages - typically comprising a piazza, a church and a few trattoria - that look as if they haven't changed since medieval times, but for sheer time-stepping rusticity none can beat sleepy Castell'Arquato. Best taken as a day trip (it is 35km west of Parma), the old town is on a rocky outcrop with views of the green hills and groves of the Emilia-Romagna countryside. The 13th-century Visconti Castle is the most admirable of the town's terracotta-tinged monuments, but the Piazza Matteotti and Palazzo del Podesta are enjoyable too.
7. Mountain pursuits Parma's stretch of the Apennines bristles with oak, beech, chestnut woods and climbers flock there to tackle summits such as the 1,799-metre-tall Mount Maggiorasca. There are more than 100 itineraries for the dedicated climber as well as easier treks, and the slopes attract skiers in winter (February is the best month). Schia, Prato Spilla and Lagdei-Lago Santo are the main ski spots, the latter providing a challenging cross-country trail. Lago Santo (also accessible by ski lift for those not keen on downhill action) is the largest natural lake in the region.
8. Holy architecture
Prosperous Parma is dotted with fairytale buildings and its cathedral (below right) is a Romanesque marvel. Look for the copper angel atop the bell tower and the side chapels, which were added after its original construction in the 12th century. Another noticeable feature is the octagonal dome and the red Verona marble staircase inside. Entrance is free and, if you want to attend a service, it's best to avoid the crowds and visit in the early evening on a weekday. Another ecclesiastical building worth seeing is the church of San Giovanni Evangelista, just east of the cathedral, which has a domed fresco of the Vision of Saint John on Patmos by Correggio.
9. Parmesan
10. Speed