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Comfort food and new twists on old favourites  are the order of the day in Warsaw's magical old town.
Stacja Rynek, 15 Stary Rynek
In  a corner of one of the most tourist-crammed bits of Warsaw lies this basement escape hidden underneath a post office. The owners celebrate  its darkness with blood-red banquettes, black walls and cinematic prints. It's  a bit gothic for a lunch date but ideal for an intimate dinner. Another plus is that tourists  don't seem  to have cottoned on to its inexpensive food, despite its central location. Try the periogi (Polish dumplings) stuffed with sauerkraut and wild mushrooms for 25 zloty (HK$80) served simply on  a cabbage leaf.
Fret@Porter, 37 Freta Street
Billing itself as a gallery restaurant,  Fret@Porter  is  a refreshing addition to the old town's  kitschier  offerings.  Polish standards such as  green lentil soup (18 zloty) are updated with a shot of spiciness and a sprinkling of mint leaves.  If your hunger pangs are a bit more pressing, try the meaty carp fillet (39 zloty). Live piano music  brightens up most evenings and the walls are  adorned with new paintings.  It is a special place with a menu  that also offers emu and ostrich, although  it can  be  busy.
Gospoda Pod Kogutem,  48 Freta Street
On a street lined with places promising authentic Polish cuisine, this has to be one of the best. It can be  lively, thanks to  locals downing syrupy spirits, but it's perfect if you're in the party  mood. Carnivores will  enjoy hefty starters  such as blood sausage  with grated onion (10 zloty). Another central European speciality  is  pork in aspic (14 zloty). If that's still not enough flesh, then finish with the  calf's legs (Euro35; HK$406) with chips and  sour cream.
Barbakan, 1 Freta Street
This large, bustling place is handy for peering over the restored city walls of Warsaw's beautiful old town.  It has a medieval  theme and  an arsenal  of weapons  hangs on the walls. If there are a few of you, it's  ideal for a  feast. The choice of food is huge, if slightly unsurprising. Best to stick to house favourites  such as the steak dusted  with green peppercorns (33 zloty).     Try the pancakes (16 zloty) crammed with fruit, chocolate sauce and nuts.
Pod Samsonem, 3/5 Freta Street
This restaurant (left) is a great little Jewish/Polish standby.  Bottles,  lamps and strings of garlic hanging from the window give it a folksy, slightly Bohemian air.  The interior looks as if it hasn't been updated since communist times, nor, it seems, have the attitudes of the staff, who  can be  brusque, but  the food will cheer up anyone.  The crispy duck  with baked apple (20 zloty) is a  favourite.   This is one of the best places  for a  bowl of zurek (5 zloty) - a meaty soup made from rye flour  that will warm you on the coldest day.



Entree: Warsaw