Chinese ham isn't as well known outside the country as that from Europe, although the production methods are similar.
What is it? Chinese ham is made by salting the raw leg of a pig then letting it air-dry and age for many months. Slowly curing the meat intensifies the flavour and develops its complexity. The best ham is named after the regions where it is produced, such as Yunnan province and Jinhua, a city in Zhejiang province, where ham has been made for centuries.
What to look for? The meat under the golden exterior fat should be glossy and deep pink with thin layers of white fat. The ideal texture is silky and delicate, not coarse, while the flavour should be complex and balanced between sweet and salty. The aroma should be sweet and fresh.
How is it available? Whole, canned and as shrink-wrapped chunks. Whole or vacuum-packed ham is better than canned. The canning process allows it to be exported to countries where the importation of certain types of meat is strictly regulated; the heating required means it is no longer considered raw.
What else? Chinese ham contains high amounts of umami, a natural flavour enhancer that makes whatever it's cooked with taste better. A whole ham keeps for a long time in the right conditions but once it's cut into smaller pieces, it should be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated or frozen.
How to use? A small amount of Chinese ham goes a long way. It adds depth and complexity to chicken broth. Put a fresh chicken in a pot and add a piece of ham, a chunk of fresh ginger and a few spring onions then cover with water. Bring it to the boil then lower the heat and simmer for about two hours. The chicken carcass won't have much flavour after being cooked for such a long time so can be discarded, but the ham can be sliced or julienned and served with the broth.