Most diners are familiar with intestines only as a casing for sausages; not many cultures eat them on their own, even though they're delicious. Large pork intestines are fatty and succulent. They're often deep-fried to render out the excess fat and concentrate the subtly sweet, nutty taste. Cooking them salt and pepper-style gives them a lift and changes their character dramatically. Good salt and pepper intestines are crisp and satisfyingly rich, with a certain chewiness that captures the flavours, lubricated by the deep-frying process and the fat in the meat. The best wines with them need a racy streak and definite flavours, while darker tones go a long way in enhancing the deep-fried notes.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2006, South Australia
This wine is just stunning, one of the best viogniers, irrespective of price. It has plenty of lovely fragrance, with jasmine, pear, white roses and a hint of marzipan. The flavours are just as lovely, with a creamy texture and pleasing long finish. The sweet fruit and contrasting alcohol balance the intestines' fattiness and give the dish a cleansing finish. The fruity perfume also adds breadth to the savoury salt and pepper headiness. It's a perfect, delicious match that juggles seamlessly the wine and intestine.
Available for HK$130 from Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)
Shaw & Smith M3 Chardonnay 2006, Adelaide Hills, Australia
This single-vineyard chardonnay is one of the stars of the Australian wine auction scene. Don't be in a hurry to finish your bottles; stash a few away and forget about them for a couple of years. The wine will age to produce fine, Burgundy-like complexities. The cool climate (by Australian standards) wine is complex and seamless. The savoury French oak used for ageing gives the fruit notes a nice, comprehensive link to the salt and pepper intestines, and the wine is very texturally driven, as are the intestines. The wine leaves the palate with plenty of freshness and sweet fruit to highlight the salt and pepper spice, while with each bite, the intestines absorb and extend the wine's depth.