In any other food-obsessed city, the chance for a chef to have their restaurant appear in the Michelin guide is irresistible. To have even one star - never mind the possibility of two or three - bestowed by the famous French guide to the best restaurants is usually enough to make a restaurateur salivate.
But not in Japan, it seems. Toshiya Kadowaki has turned down the opportunity to be listed in the inaugural edition of the Michelin guide to Tokyo's restaurants, which was released in November. And he is adamant that he will do the same again if they approach him for future editions.
There were several reasons why he declined what many would consider a great honour, but his biggest concern centred on Europeans passing judgment on Japanese cuisine.
'It's fine if they want to make statements on French food and cuisine culture, and I have no problems with restaurants being simply listed in guide books, but who are they to judge my food and decide whether we are worthy of one, two or three stars? Or no stars at all,' says Kadowaki.
His restaurant, Azabu Kadowaki, opened in 2000 and serves traditional Japanese food with a contemporary twist.
'Imagine if I went to Paris and started judging the food served in French restaurants,' he says, referring to what many consider to be the bible of gastronomy, which is spreading its reach outside of Europe and North America. 'The French would be less than happy. I don't think they [Michelin] should do the same here.'