Shop 105, 1/F Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Tel: 3188 4282 Open: 11am-11pm (from 10.30am on Saturday and Sunday) Cuisine: Italian. Ambience: The restaurant aspires to be more than a mid-market shopping pit stop-cum-eatery but the location conspires against it. The wooden chairs, green and brown upholstery and white tablecloths might have passed as modern 'trattoria' in a Milanese cafe but it falls flat inside a TST super mall. The 30-seat dining room was half-full on a Thursday night, with a quiet mix of couples and small groups of office ladies. Price: About HK$350 for a three-course meal without drinks and before the service charge. Pros: If first and last impressions are all that matter, Nobilduca would incarnate as a gracious country baron in terms of food and service. Ordering was smooth, largely because our waiter was warm and unassuming. We started with a luscious plate of wild-pig lardo, pancetta, salami and olives (HK$268) that was well complemented with some chilled pinot grigio. And at the end of the meal, after coffee and a generous serving of a panna cotta (HK$58) richly flavoured with vanilla bean, we were fondly bid to come back and try the rest of the kitchen's offerings. Cons: Among the 'textbook Italian' dishes we tried, the l'antica rocca spaghetti with garlic, olive oil and chilli pepper (HK$118) came with an unholy amount of semi-raw garlic paste that overpowered everything else. Next to this dish, my guest's snail and truffle risotto (HK$158) tasted practically indolent - while the rice was cooked well, the off-the-rack seasoning did not inspire, and we certainly couldn't taste the truffles. Recommended dishes: Aside from the plate of cured pork cuts (above, and which is worth going back for), we shared a seafood soup (HK$98) that packed in the sweetness and nuttiness of roasted shellfish without the thickness of a bisque. We also enjoyed the big plate of braised ox-tail (HK$188) which came coated in a smooth, rich sauce that was neither too winey nor fatty. Underneath the boney goodness, we found twirled strands that looked like capellini but turned out to be potato - finely shredded and lightly fried. What else? Till the end of April, the restaurant presents a seven-course Nobilduca Royal Dinner in celebration of its first anniversary. The meal is HK$1,088 plus 10 per cent service charge for two persons, but management is now offering a 30 per cent discount. Lunch menus include a 'health set' for HK$75 which includes a soup, a sandwich or large salad, and coffee or tea. The regular lunch sets are HK$118 for a choice of a pasta or risotto main course, and HK$158 for meat or fish.