Chef Margaret Xu Yuan, who owns Deli X, a takeaway shop on Po Hing Fong in Sheung Wan, has opened a restaurant in a 1930s, grade-two building in Wan Chai. Yin Yang (below right) seats 24 in the airy, three-storey former shophouse. The kitchen, on the second floor, has a charcoal-fuelled oven that Xu made out of two enormous Italian terracotta pots. It's used to roast the signature dish of yellow earth chicken. Most of the produce served at Yin Yang is grown at Xu's organic farm in Yuen Long. She makes her own preserves, pickles and condiments (which are also sold at Deli X) and uses a hand-cranked stone mill to grind soya beans. The selection of dishes changes according to what's in season. A recent menu included a cold appetiser platter of cured wild duck, chicken liver, mustard greens and home-smoked ham; port wine oysters, sea urchin custard with black truffle, abalone with 'black diamond' (sea cucumbers from Canada), organic pigeon with consomme, roast baby pig with kumquat marmalade and 'yin yang rice' (below left; white rice, squid ink rice and squid). The menu starts at HK$560 for eight courses and rises to more than HK$800, depending on the dishes. Xu says she will tailor a menu to a guests' desires. Xu requires a minimum of six people per reservation and says about two weeks' notice is needed to book for a week night. Fridays and Saturdays are booked up about a month in advance. Yin Yang is open Monday to Saturday for dinner. Xu plans to open on Sundays and for lunch this month. Yin Yang is at 18 Ship Street, Wan Chai, tel: 2866 0868.