Felix, 28/F The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 23153188 Fare Once famous for its Pacific Rim cuisine, this restaurant has reinvented itself as a contemporary continental restaurant. Ambience The Philippe Starck decor has changed little. The high-ceiling space feels as dramatic as ever. You still get the commanding harbour view, and the giant marble bench that serves as the martini table continues to be the centrepiece you can't keep your eyes off. And, of course, the urinal with a view is still there. Cost HK$1,000 per head would not be unusual here. Who to bring Celebrities, movie stars and socialites, or your friends who'd like to feel like them. Turn-ons The food by chef Ashton Hall is nothing short of amazing. Every dish is presented like a piece of three-dimensional art. The best way to experience his cuisine is through the Felix Experience, priced at HK$1,480 per person. The sea urchin egg, complemented with a vodka cream, was superb. Its textural flavour signified things to come. The tuna sashimi with crispy chorizo and black truffle oil was a marvel, with the sharpness of the chorizo mixing well with the tuna. Foie gras was available in two styles, pan-fried and served with brioche, or like a pate served with red pear, pink peppercorn and vanilla. The latter was far more interesting, feeling like a smooth, sweet tune with occasional dramatic interludes. The Boston lobster, smoked tomato, gruyere, tarragon (pictured), was layered - we used to dislike Boston lobster because flavour-wise it was weak, but here the smokiness brought it out. Pancetta-wrapped lamb, twice-cooked fingerlings and chipotle with mint jus, was herbal, rich and sensational. Even the palate cleanser, raspberry with soda, left us speechless. Turn-offs The chairs at Felix look like something that you'd put in the foyer; for a restaurant of this price level we'd want something more luxurious. Drinks You're at The Peninsula so there's almost nothing you can't find here. The chef would be happy to recommend wines to you. The Pisa Range 2005 pinot noir was recommended to us for the lobster course. It was a light red that complemented the smokiness of the dish while giving the crustacean a backdrop to shine further.