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Detours: Kura Kura Resort

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I took the creaky ferry - a tedious 3 1/2 hours to travel to the Karimunjawa islands from the Javanese port city of Semarang, although there are quicker ways to get there by light plane and longboat.

Kura Kura is one of Indonesia's best kept secrets and proof of the Karimunjawa archipelago's captivating beauty.

The waters of these islands are well known in diving circles as some of the best scuba spots in Asia, and yet outsiders rarely experience their beauty.

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Of the 27 atolls, scattered like stones across a vivid blue landscape, most are not inhabited but make for great picnic spots - the ultimate Robinson Crusoe getaway.

Kura Kura Resort is the only resort on the picturesque island of Menyawakan. Studded with coconut trees like a sun-shy porcupine, the island lies within its own pristine reef and, as part of a national marine park, it has been saved from obtrusive development. Kura Kura has developed from a family holiday home owned by an Indonesian-Swedish couple into a boutique retreat, complete with mini-flotilla, planes and day spa.

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White sand paths lead away from the pier to a colonial-style open-air dining room and reception area, where ginger tea on the rocks is offered and the warmth of the day ebbs away with the fading light.

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