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squid ink

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The black 'ink' ejected by squid, cuttlefish and octopuses has uses other than to help the cephalopods escape their predators.

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What is it? When frightened, cephalopods eject a dark substance that is supposed to befuddle or distract predators.

What do we use it for? In the olden days, it was used for writing and as a dye for clothes. In cuisine, squid ink is used to colour and flavour pasta, risotto and other dishes.

What else? Although it's referred to as squid ink, it can be taken from other cephalopods. In Italy, squid ink is sold in small tubs at fish markets. In Hong Kong, you'll have to 'harvest' your own. Prepare the squid in the usual way by cutting off the head between the eye and body. Use your fingers to pull the entrails and quill from the cavity. The ink sacs will be full or nearly empty, depending on whether the squid ejected the contents when it was captured. Gently squeeze the ink from the sacs and use it immediately or freeze it.

How to use: for squid-ink pasta, make the dough by mixing flour with egg yolk. Add the squid ink (a little goes a long way) and knead the dough until it's evenly coloured - it should be dark because the colour fades when the pasta is cooked. Roll the dough through a pasta machine then cut it to the desired width.

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For squid-ink risotto, heat a little oil in a pan, add some chopped onion and cook until tender. Add carnaroli or arborio rice and stir constantly for a few minutes to coat the grains with the oil. Add some squid ink and white wine and stir until the liquid is absorbed. Stir in a ladleful of simmering seafood stock and let the rice absorb the liquid before adding more. Stir constantly, adding sufficient liquid so the rice is firm-tender. Season with salt and pepper then add some cooked seafood and chopped flat-leaf parsley.

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