6/F Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2113 0808 Open: noon-2.30pm (last order), 6pm-10.30pm (last order) Cuisine: Asian and western. Ambience: With its open kitchens, clean lines and fluid layout creating more intimate spaces within the large room, Cucina is immediately recognisable as being designed by Japan's Super Potato. We were seated at a small table with a great view of the harbour. The noise level was buzzing but not intolerably loud. Price: About HK$500 without drinks and before adding the service charge. Pros: Our waiter was knowledgable, thoughtful and efficient and the manager was affable. Cons: The dessert platter (HK$240) disappointed because we were expecting small portions of all the selections (which had mouthwatering descriptions), but it had only three. It can be difficult to decide what to order because there's just so much choice: the menu is divided into western selections (appetisers and salads, soups and pasta, meat and poultry, seafood, side dishes) and the Chinese equivalent, plus noodles and rice. Recommended dishes: We ordered the golden fried soft shell crabs (HK$128) - two large crabs cut in half and served with chilli sauce (which tasted commercial), soy sauce and delicious homemade XO sauce full of conpoy (dried scallops). The crabs didn't need any sauce: they were succulent and meaty, although the one at the bottom of the stack was slightly oily. The sauteed diced beef tenderloin with asparagus and wasabi (HK$188, right) had large, tender cubes of meat coated in a light mayonnaise (a Japanese brand, judging from its taste). I enjoyed it but my guest, who has an aversion to mayonnaise, didn't. He cleaned his plate of his main course of grilled veal cutlet (HK$350) with prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes, sage and marsala. His side dish of cannellini bean and borlotti bean risotto (HK$55) was a good, rich contrast to the lean veal. My main course of konnyaku noodles with kimchi, fresh oysters, shaved pork and poached egg (HK$125) was a light, delicious combination: the tart, slightly spicy broth was refreshing, the oysters were tender and the yolk oozed when I bit into the egg. What else?: There's a changing list of specials, which on our visit featured charcuterie (on the western menu) and winter melon dishes from the Chinese side. For weekday lunch there's a salad and appetiser bar for HK$160 plus 10 per cent, and a three-course lunch (salad bar, main and dessert) for HK$220.