Roasted tuna with a black olive crust is a delicious combination, with the olives just one of the many flavours that work well with the versatile and succulent fresh fish. Although the meat is from strong muscle, the tuna fillet is tender and moist. The black olive crust can be slightly overpowering, so don't spread it too thickly on the fish. The rich base flavour is matched by the tuna's cooked liver-like texture on the outside and the raw protein inside. The perfect wine match needs to set up a contrast to the olive's dark notes or to match its intensity. With reds, pinot noir has sufficient tannins, as do Barbera, Dolcetto and even some traditional tempranillos: they will all match comfortably.
Two Paddocks Picnic Riesling 2007, Central Otago, New Zealand
Two Paddocks is the winery owned by actor Sam Neill, and he uses this riesling as a picnic wine. It's refreshing to learn the affable actor isn't just a dilettante: he's passionate about wine and while aspiring to make his favourite Burgundy styles, his winery is making its own memorable classics. This is a German, off-dry-style riesling and it's a lovely contrast to the earthy black olive and tuna succulence. The lifted fragrant fruit notes really add height to the dish.
Available for HK$124 from Wine'n'Things (tel: 2873 5733)
Yeringberg Pinot Noir 2004, Yarra Valley, Australia
The Yarra Valley near Melbourne is one of the most beautiful and accessible wine regions in the world. Wineries there present a cohesive quality message, from their bottles down to their unmistakable Australian friendliness and hospitality. Yeringberg is one of the oldest vineyards in the Yarra Valley, and its wines have always delivered in fruit and are true to the Aussie style. This Yeringberg pinot is a perfect match with black olive-crusted tuna. The pinot's berry fruit sits next to the earthy olive tones and the rest just falls into place.